How to connect AC indoor fan to universal PCB and capacitor
Dear expert,
I'm replacing my Sanyo AC PCB board with universal PCB bought from China. I have connected all of the cables and all of them working fine except for the fan. It doesn't turn on. I have check some of the YouTube video how others are doing, it seems it requires separate capacitor to start up the fan which China board doesn't come with. I bought a capacitor with same specs 1.2uf as original one but now I have problem how to wire fan to board via capacitor.
This is the diagram PCB universal board: This is diagram from PCB universal.
And this is the picture of my indoor fan:
Would anyone please help me. How the 3 cables from fan should be connected to the board?
Thanks
Last edited by PJmax; 06-28-22 at 12:06 PM.
Reason: added enhanced connection diagram
An induction motor capacitor is selected by the motor manufacturer for developing maximum starting torque at the nameplate operating voltage. Therefore the capacitance value of a replacement capacitor should stay the same. The replacement capacitor operating voltage rating can be the same or higher. Not sure why new PCB manufacturer’s diagram suggests using original capacitor with a different motor since they have no idea which motor is being used . Your current motor is a single speed induction motor using a capacitor operating between 220-240 vac (volts ac). The new PCB has the capability of energizing 1 of 3 different coils (speeds) for the motor shown. Most AC fans run on high so I will proceed on this assumption. With the new PCB board powered and thermostat calling for cool measure vac across terminals labelled N and H, N and M and N and L on the diagram. If voltage is not between 220-240 vac can’t help. If voltage is between between 220-240 vac on 1 or more pair, assuming H,M and L correspond to high, medium and low speed, choose the highest speed for original motor connection. Connect the original motor’s white wire to this terminal. Locate the capacitor. It may be inside or outside the original motor. Connect the brown wire from the original motor going to one side of the capacitor to new PCB terminal labelled N on the diagram. The other side of the capacitor should be connected to original motor’s red wire.
Thanks both. Really appreciated your time.
I tried to wire according to the instructions. White cable from motor to High speed terminal, Brown to N and capacitor on one side and red to capacitor on another side.
Unfortunately it doesn't turn on the fan.
I'm using separate capacitor which I bought separately. Same specs as original tho 450 vac and 1.2 uf.
What voltage did you measure on the terminal pair before connecting the motor? Was the fan motor operating before changing the PCB? Why did you change capacitor?
This is my original capacitor stick with old PCB board. 440 vac
fan was working before. In fact, the fan was not able to stop. That's why I changed the PCB. My bought separate capacitor the spec is 450 vac 1.2uf. it's very close to original one.
those 3 cables next to capacitor are for fan which I cut off.
Hi Guys,
I just replaced the run capacitor in the outside unit. It always happens on the hottest day of the year. :)
Is it possible or advantageous to install an overrated capacitor? So maybe it will last forever? :)
Our 17 year old Carrier split system isn't running.
The evaporator fan blows air.
I hear the start capacitor kick on.
One of the circuit breakers trips on start.
I saw the condenser fan trigger about 1/4", but probably stopped when the breaker tripped.
So... I'm assuming the compressor is done, but will try to confirm via electrical checks I learned about.
If it is done, we will need to replace the evaporator and condenser. I'm leary about being burned by A/C guys at the height of their busy season. Mechanically/electrically, I can replace the units. Not experienced evacuating/charging a system and don't know if I can even buy refrigerant.
In my early research, I came upon Packaged Units - something I never heard of before. I'm in NJ - maybe they aren't popular here or maybe since I've been golden for 17 years, I'm not up on changes to the industry.
They seem like an easy install on a ground pad. I would have to learn about connecting insulated ducting from the outside and would have to learn more overall, but it seems like a good DIY solution.
Can anyone share thoughts on:
Is there a reason I haven't heard of them in NJ?
Is there a downside I'm unaware of?
Is connecting the external insulated ducting to our existing trunk duct an issue?
Anything else?
Thanks guys!