I am running an older Frigidaire window AC in a master bedroom, bathroom, walk-in closet area that is about 350 sq. ft. Attached is the unit label with specs. This is the type of AC with no drain design that intends the fan to pick up the water and throw it on the hot coil to evaporate. I am about ready to drill a hole in the bottom of it, as I cannot get the humidity in that room below 58%, usually is in the mid 60's.
I am running this while Trane tries to decide when during August my heat pump part may arrive. I have tried different scenarios of running it on Auto instead of high, running it colder, running it warmer, and today with the door shut. I have a large portable AC 10,000 btu cooling the adjacent rooms with humidity generally at 55% or lower.
The bedroom remains clammy. Last night I finally just shut it off and let a fan blow in from the adjacent area. Any suggestions would be appreciated, but damp air that is worse at night is not something I can do. The unitis about 5 years old. Label
58% isn't too bad. I don't think that is an unusual humidity level especially since you are running a window unit.
You mentioned wanting to drill a drain hole. Why do you think this will help? Is the condensate removal system of your AC not working? Is water overflowing somewhere? Is the unit shutting down because of excess water?
If humidity is your main problem try turning the AC on low cool and let it run. AC's do better at removing humidity when they run a long time. So, short bursts of high cool may cool the room but it doesn't allow enough time to remove the moisture. Running low and slow might give the AC more time to remove that pesky humidity.
You mentioned running a 10k btu portable air conditioner elsewhere. Is it a single or dual hose model? If it is a single hose it can actually make the humidity in the home worse. Single hose units are TERRIBLE. That one hose is blowing your conditioned air outside. This creates a vacuum in the home drawing hot humid air from outside by leaking past doors, windows, electrical outlets... So, with a single hose unit for every bit of air it blows outside an equal amount of hot, humid air MUST leak back into the house. You can say "I don't feel air leaking in" but physics don't care and the air is getting in somewhere. Dual hose portable air conditioners are much more efficient and the second hoes means that it operates much more like a whole house or window AC where the outside and indoor air are kept separate.
I'm in the process of replacing my central air and am using a couple of window units. They work just well enough to take some heat and humidity out of the air. They are definitely more challenged when used in a second floor application based on the heat from the attic above.
Window units need longer to recover and should be left running longer.
The condensate runs from inside under the evaporator to the outside condenser area. That condensate is slung up onto the condenser coil with the fan to help cooling. As long as there is no condensate coming inside the house.... it's working normally. If there is too much condensate to get rid of... it should spill over outside. Hearing more sloshing from the fan is normal too.
Model #0625615,10,000 BTU. The red light on top of the unit was red and was blicking. I drained the water and left it off all night. Also, I reset the plug. On some other portable ac units, there was a RESET but on this unit, I can not find it. Any idea why it will not come on?Read More
I have the Trane xv95 furnace and had a tech come out and diagnose the problem as to why the there is water under my furnace. Well, it's the evaporator coil drain pan. Its rusted. My question is, can I replace just the drain pan or is it part of the whole evaporator coil system??? It's over $3,000.00 to replace the entire unit. Replacing the drain pan would be cheaper. HELP!!!!
Read More