Question on replacement for old UEC Blower Motor


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Old 07-27-22, 12:09 PM
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Question Question on replacement for old UEC Blower Motor

After 40 years, the blower motor in our A/C air handler finally died. The bearings are shot and it grinds noticeably when I turn the shaft. I'm looking for a replacement but having trouble finding a match. Specs are below.

Universal Electric Co. Owosso, MI
Ser. 2YA 12542A MOD. HE3D008N HQ1056342UN
Dia. 5.6'' (48 Frame)
Width 3.7''
Shaft 1/2'' x 2.8''
RPM 950
HP 1/6
V 208-230 V / 60Hz
Amps 1.3A

Wiring-wise, this unit has two capacitor leads (both Brown) and three AC leads: Yellow, Black and Red. Based on the images shown, the closely-matching motors I've found so far seem to have only TWO AC leads - typ. Black and White. Are the images wrong? If not, Is it possible and/or safe to connect a two-wire 220V AC motor to a three-wire controller?
 

Last edited by PJmax; 07-27-22 at 12:56 PM. Reason: resized pic
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Old 07-27-22, 12:58 PM
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Can you post a pic or two of it installed.... if available or at least where it goes.
OR... how is it mounted ?
Direct drive or pulley driven ?

There are universal motors that will work but the speed is an issue.

Grainger motor
Amazon choices












 
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Old 07-27-22, 01:33 PM
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Thanks PJ! Don't have pics, but it's a direct-drive assembly that is virtually identical to the one shown in this video:

https://youtu.be/UKoK_U_GKZI?t=16

Thank you for the links. I've seen a bunch of these, and my real curiosity is how to match the wiring. My motor has three AC leads - Yellow, Black and Red. I have yet to find a compatible motor with this same wiring arrangement. Typically, a multi-speed motor seems to have 4 leads.

So I'm hoping there's a way to wire one of these others to the three wires that come out of the unit's controller, which I believe is designed for a single-speed (950rpm) motor. Just haven't found any clear info on that.

cheers!
 
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Old 07-27-22, 01:54 PM
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The motor in that video uses a belly band which means motor diameter is important.

The wiring is the easy part.
If you have a single speed motor feed with three wires then one wiring is for the capacitor.
Typically one wire is neutral, one is run and one is start or capacitor.
 
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Old 07-27-22, 02:07 PM
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Yes, that's how this one is set up (belly band). The motor is Frame 48 based on the diameter.

As mentioned in the OP, this motor has two capacitor leads (both brown). It's obvious where those go, and if necessary I'll just get a new capacitor to match a new motor if I find one.

The problem is the other three wires (the non-capacitor wires): Red, Yellow and Black. Does this indicate that the motor is a 2-speed motor? Because I have yet to find a compatible motor that has 3 wires in addition to the capacitor wires.

thanks!
 
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Old 07-27-22, 02:23 PM
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Three wires in addition to two capacitor wires indicates two speeds.
Look where the wires connect. Post a picture of it.

Century motor

According to what I've found.... this is the replacement motor for yours.
A bit expensive.... Universal replacement
 
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Old 07-27-22, 02:44 PM
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Thanks, PJ.

That explains the three wires. If it's two-speed, what does the 950rpm indicate? Is 950 the highest speed?

All 5 wires - Brn, Brn, Yel, Blk, Red - come out of the same fitting in the motor, bundled together.

The two Brn capacitor wires go directly to the Capacitor.

The three remaining wires - Yel, Blk, Red - go into the same fitting on the controller housing, bundled together. I can't get at the controller board without taking more of the unit apart to remove and open the controller housing. That's not really feasible given the location of the unit.

I'm wondering if there's a way to determine which is Common, Hi and Low based on the resistance between the leads at the motor. These are:

Blk -> Red: 14.4 ohms
Blk -> Yel: 31.3 ohms
Red -> Yel: 45.5 ohms

thanks again.
 
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Old 07-27-22, 06:08 PM
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Looks like that's feasible. I found this, which made sense:
https://youtu.be/5GITgsRmSZ4

So my only question, really, is how to verify that the three leads coming from my very OLD PSC motor controller are in fact Common, Low Speed and High Speed and not Common, Start and Run. Or are these functionally the same thing on a two-speed motor?
My Yellow wire is in fact connected directly (0 ohms) to one of the Brown capacitor wires, so this lines up with what's described in the video above.
Any of this making sense? If so, if I can find a multi-speed motor with a speed selection that matches the RPM/HP/Amp rating I need, it seems like that should work. I'd just like to get an experienced opinion to weigh in on it.
thanks again!
 
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Old 07-27-22, 09:35 PM
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Here's the diagram of your motor wiring but you still don't know which wires the 240v was on.
I'd imagine yellow and black. When your old motor is disconnected you can check for the two leads
of the three that have 240v on them.
 
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Old 07-27-22, 10:04 PM
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Very Cool - thanks! Did you draw that up, or did you find the graphic somewhere?

FWIW, all three wires - Yel, Blk and Rd - were routed together up into the controller enclosure before I removed the motor.

So I'm assuming the diagram implies that the Hi/Lo switch is on the controller board, yes?

thanks again!

 
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Old 07-27-22, 10:25 PM
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I have the graphic up to four speeds and modify as needed.

You said you had an air handler. Air handlers would typically only run at one speed.
It could still have a multi speed motor but it wouldn't change in operation.

Whereas with a furnace.... the A/C would run on high speed and the heat on low speed.
 
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Old 07-28-22, 10:56 AM
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Very nice - thanks again!

It's starting to sound like I could replace this motor with a 48 Frame, belly-band style, multi-speed motor as long as the physical dimensions are close (motor length, shaft length) and the various parameters at the speed I select are comparable, e.g., HP, FLA, RPM, etc.

So far I've found a number of multi-speed motors with a speed tap that comes close to the 950rpm this one is rated for. I'm wondering if 1050 or 1075rpm would be a problem. Functionally, as long as the other parameters were compatible, this would just push ~10% more air, no?

Anyway, average price on several of these was around $200, which would certainly be preferable to replacing the unit, which is likely also going to involve changing the outside condenser unit since they're phasing out R22 systems.

Thanks again for your help with this.
cheers!
 
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Old 07-28-22, 11:06 AM
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Slightly over speed you should be ok.
It's not only the amount of air moved it's what speed the blower wheel(s) are rated for.
 
 

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