How to tell a load bearing wall
#1
How to tell a load bearing wall
There is a wall that divides my kitchen and living room. I need to know how to tell if it is a load bearing wall. I want to tear it half of it out and either put in a picture window or a spindle wall. But of course not at the expence of destroying my house. Thanks.
#2
majesticgriffin,
Usually any wall on main floor, directly below a roof system that is running at right angles to the roof framing is considered a bearing wall. This is on the assumption that your roof is "stick built".
If it is a roof system that has pre-manufactured roof trusses, the wall may or may not be load bearing. This would be determined by how the truss was constructed. Usually vertical struts are placed directly over a load bearing wall.
If possible, have someone with knowledge of construction review what you have to avoid any problems or misunderstanding of what I am advising.
Hope this helps!
Usually any wall on main floor, directly below a roof system that is running at right angles to the roof framing is considered a bearing wall. This is on the assumption that your roof is "stick built".
If it is a roof system that has pre-manufactured roof trusses, the wall may or may not be load bearing. This would be determined by how the truss was constructed. Usually vertical struts are placed directly over a load bearing wall.
If possible, have someone with knowledge of construction review what you have to avoid any problems or misunderstanding of what I am advising.
Hope this helps!
#5
If it can be opened up some then how would I go about making the header? Is there a ratio that can be followed for different lengths of walls. All so I have another load bearing wall thats has a 24 inch door in it. I want to tear that door out and widened the opening to fit a double 3' french door. Does the same principle apply to that also?
thanks
thanks
#6
majesticgriffin,
As I mentioned before, have someone with knowledge of construction review what you have to avoid any problems or misunderstanding of what I and the others are advising. The questions cannot be answered here without seeing what you have. Suggesting anything more is not advisable from our standpoint.
Good Luck!
As I mentioned before, have someone with knowledge of construction review what you have to avoid any problems or misunderstanding of what I and the others are advising. The questions cannot be answered here without seeing what you have. Suggesting anything more is not advisable from our standpoint.
Good Luck!
#7
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As Doug said, it would be best to get an expert to look at your home to see what is actually needed.
However, to answer your question about the ratio of header to span length:
Normally, 1" of depth is required for each foot of span.
If the top of the wall is not in contact with the floor or roof framing above then it isn't a bearing wall. Many times interior non-bearing walls are framed so that there is about a 1/2" gap above the top plate and the floor or roof framing above.
However, to answer your question about the ratio of header to span length:
Normally, 1" of depth is required for each foot of span.
If the top of the wall is not in contact with the floor or roof framing above then it isn't a bearing wall. Many times interior non-bearing walls are framed so that there is about a 1/2" gap above the top plate and the floor or roof framing above.
#9
To determine if a wall is load bearing requires the expertise of a building engineer or someone from your local building inspector's office. Any change to structure will require permit and inspection. Building codes tend to vary from area to area, so it is important to check in with the local bulding inspector in order to meet codes and inspections and get approval for any changes in structure.