Forgive the length of my post...

I picked up 166 sq feet of Solid Bamboo in "Spice" color - carbonized-- from Lowes and am hoping to make sure I am doing this right before I start. (Lowes Item # 142749 Model # 602HS)

Details for this small job....

• Room is 140sq feet, above grade, and currently carpeted
• Subfloor is 3/4 OSB
• Solid Bamboo has been getting acclimated for the past 5 days.
• Glue - Roberts 1408 - will be acclimated for 3 days.
• Flooring in hallway is standard oak flooring (slightly taller than 5/8 bamboo)

Included instrucitons for glue down were vague. They suggested using 'manufacturers recommended glue with 1/4 x 3/16 x 5/16 V notch trowel', but nowhere inside or on the box, was a glue recommended. I called their tech number and received advice to use 'any Urethane based like Bostiks Best' and for any filler - make sure it is 'cement based and not a liquid self leveling' filler.




Here's my plan.

• Pull out the carpet & tack strip
  
• Applying "Henry 549 Feather Finish" (portland cement based patch & Skimcoat) to any large irregularities/dips in subfloor.
  
• Lay down 1/8 Luan over the subfloor and nail that down - - should end up with a final height that matches the oak floor adjacent. Then let that sit overnight - to make sure that feather finish is cured/dry.
  
• Glue down bamboo using "Roberts 1408" Urethane Wood Floowing Adhesive -- Bamboo & Solid Wood.
  
• Transition between bamboo and oak with T moulding.

Here are my questions:
Glue: did I pick the correct glue? I have one 4 gallon bucket, based on real world experience will this be enough to install 140 sq ft?


Transitions: the doorway into the room is 5 ft wide, does anyone know where I can find a carbonized "T Moulding" or "Right Angle" that long? (I currently have 2 T Mouldings that I could use, but 1 longer peice without a seam would be better.)


HVAC Vent: If it doesn't cost a fortune I am wondering if I can find a carbonized 'vent' kit and am wondering how well those work?


Anything else I am missing? (other than keep the glue on the bottom of the boards :-) )





Notes to the next DIY-er doing this:

With the 3/4 OSB subfloor the only good option seems to be glue down or rip out and then replace the Subfloor for a nail/staple down.

I'm using the 1/8 Luan between the OSB and bamboo because that will make it easier to tear out & start over -- *IF* I really make a big mistake. (plus it should help match the height of existing flooring.)

The Roberts 1408 seems to be specific to solid bamboo installation. It was NOT available at my local Lowes so I had to go to HD to get it. It was expensive -- approx $120 for 4 gallon metal bucket.

When pricing solid vs engineered flooring factor in the difference in the glue prices. (Engineered Bamboo used a Urethane -- Robers 1407 at around $70 for 4 gallons.... this price makes more of a difference with larger projects.)

The Lowes Solid Bamboo flooring is from Natural Cork company and thier web address is www.naturalcork.com (click "collections" and then "bamboo" ) if you want to see what they have online.

Mat

P.S. after install I will try to post how it went.

 

Leave the luan off until the feather finish is dry. It will dry faster and the luan won't be sucking in and holding the moisture.

Why would you replace the sub for nail down? 3/4" OSB holds nails and staples just fine.

 

Thanks Pendragon --

I will wait for the filler to dry before installing Luan. (good thinking there)

For the OSB:
Sounds like I got a bit of bad advice still stuck in my head about the 3/4 OSB.

Back in '98 when we built the house, we had to pay extra for a *real* plywood based subfloor everywhere they were installing oak hardwood as the OSB wouldn't hold good for naildown. Guess I was still operating under those guidelines.... for beter or worse.

Mat

 

Mat, OSB has come a long way since it was first introduced into the market. Today's OSB's are stronger and more resistant to moisture. When they first came out with this stuff, it had issues of moisture getting in through the edges of the board and delamination from the construction period. This is no longer a bad issue.

 

So since this was originally installed in 98, I will probably stick with gluedown - don't know what quality OSB they installed back then.

 

The install wasn't too bad...

Luan went down easily enough and I had a nice smooth surface to work with.

The process of glue down was a bit of a pain, but once I got my process down it was good. 1st row on the back wall was nail down. Then I cut & measured about 5 rows and glued them down. (Note: That glue can sure travel around a lot when you are applying the next section. Have your mineral spirits ready to clean the little itty bitty drips. Also have lots of rubber gloves handy as each section glued uses a new pair of gloves.) Blue painters tape held the boards firmly enough to continue.

After the 1st 5 rows, I had to stop for the kids naptime... so I was able to continue measuring/cutting and dryfitting the rest of the floor - leaving the 'last board' until later. (a lengthwise tablesaw cut instead of the quick & easy miter saw.)

well I didn't get to finish the glue down the rest of that day, but the floor was sitting there nicely waiting for me. Next day after taking the 'skin' off the glue, I was able to finish the job. Did about 5 to 6 board sections at a time as I didn't want to reach too far across the wet glue when installing.


Initial finish looked good, but I've noticed a lot of scratches in the aluminum oxide coating. The surface layer of aluminum oxide scratches much easier than I though and shows white lines that don't blend well.

Lines seem to appear even with kids running along the floor playing cars & such. -- so we will be buying an area rug to go over a good portion of the hardwood. :-(

For the scratches -- I am wondering if I can 'buff' them out... AND if there is a better surface protector I could spray or apply over that would be better? Not how I expected a 25 year floor surface to behave... good thing I only did a small room and not the whole house.

Mat