Before I lay down a plywood floor in the attic, I am looking to fill-in the almost 3 inch missing gap with loose-fill/cell insulation (in the entire attic floor).

I am having a hard time finding a place that will sell loose-fill/cell insulation to the public. Does anyone know of a supplier on the northeast? Home depot doesn’t sell it here (unlike the Chicago area).

 

Try calling tool rental stores that rent out the equipment to blow insulation in. They will sell cellulose by the bag. Since it is only 3 inches, you don't need to rent the equipment. All you have to do is open the bag over the area you want to cover, fluff it up and then level it with a board or rake.

 

Greetings,

If you have a 3" gap you can install a typ 3 radaint barrier(RB) over the existing material. This will far exceed the value of the cellulose.

If you have 4-6" of existing insulation adding 3" of cellulose will do little litte or nothing.

Thank you for considering my opinion.

 

Thank you rbisys!

do you know of any good sites so I educate myself with RB?

ultimately, I want to put a plywood floor down in the unfinished attic for some light storage; does the RB go over or under the new floor (probably over).

lastly, is RB a good winter insulator?

thanks again!!

 

Greetings,

Go thru google and enter radiant barriers. Keep in mind that some info is over stated, some understated and some a kill joy.
The material I'm recommending and its application will not be on the web.

The material will go between the joist so that you will have an air space between the RB and flooring, plus two more reflective surfaces.

If you send your address to my e-mail I'll send a sample and sketch.

For winter you will not see as good a result as summer as 4-6" of bulk will save you about 75% of the heat you will save. Published reports indicate an extra 12%. Summer you could save up to 30%. Adding more bulk will not save you enough to justify the material costs.

You might want to look into radiant barrier paints on the web. The combo coud save you up to 30% + for winter alone.

Thank you for considering my opinion.

 

Lowes has loose fill cellulose here in Western Pa. By the way, I have used Insuladd, a radiant barrier paint addative. My experience is that is probably lives up to the average claims on the web for radiant barriers. I painted some interior walls with it, and it actually seems to do better keeping heat in in the winter than in keeping out summer heat. Probably because of the direction it is facing. Fifty bucks and our heating and cooling costs seem reasonable, if not outstanding. I do seem to have had some trouble getting the powder to mix well, with some resulting visable irregularities on the walls and ceiling. For what it is worth.
Ed

 

Greetings,

Regarding the mixing of the RB paint additive.

You need to mix with a small drywall compound mixer with a good 3/8 drill motor. It pushes the paint towards the bottom.

Be sure to run on SLOW.

 

from my research; the loose fill blow-in material at Lowes and HomeDepot is not treated with boric acid. Without this ingredient the cellulose material can cause the attic wood to root. I talked to the company and they were hessitant to admit this lack of boric acid fact. (I was not told the truth by their cus rep) I dug deeper to get this fact.
Where can I find boric acid treated 'newspaper chew' for the attic?

 

Greetings,

Even if you find a treated product, you have to keep in mind that condensation leaches out the acid. No more fire retardent.

I'm telling you the RB is far superior.

 

What about the possiblity of traping moisture around the joists?

 

Greetings,

Very good ?.

The exposed wood only accounts for about 12% of the surface, so there will be some loss/gain. 12% compared to the efficiency of the rest of the floor area is very small. You can't put a RB over the joists because moisture from the house will pass thru the joists and condensate on the bottom of the foil. Not good. I have done several like yours and I know you will be satisfied.

When I first found out about RBs 30 years ago I vacumned out the rock wool in my moms attic and installed a three layer material. The joists were exposed. The reduction in heat transfer was like turning off a light. I/we didn't know you could install as I have out lined for you.

The attic is going to be very hot for storage. I would suggest that you spray paint the inside roof sheathing with koolcoat.com
This way you have less heat energy being radiated to the joists and it will reduce the attic temp for storage. Don't rely on the paint alone, use the combination.

Thank you for considering my opinion.

 

For attic foor, Radiant Barriers seem like an ideal choice to use in conjunction with Fiberglass ($);
FG is needed in winter to slow the escape of bypass warm air that will inevitably be
escaping through leaky old ducts running between the walls.(most older homes have leaky ducts)
and vented RB can deflect the radiant heat that will be escaping from the FG. now, who is willing to write a check for both?
I don't think we should generally say one insulation product is better than another; each product has its niche use and will complement the other when used.
The big question is which combination of suitable products to use for the given location while taking into account budget constraints.
Let's end the 'RB' vs. 'EE'(Everything Else) match and focus on the problem.

 

Greetings,

Thank you for your intrest and "thinking". I'm going to give you some more to think about. Actually I need your e-mail so I can send you some data/info.

First, as gently and careingly as I can, YES THERE IS ONE THAT IS BEST. There can only be one "best". Fg is certainly not it.

If you check Marks mechanical enginnering handbook, 8th edition, sec 4-73 (?)., you'll find the emissivity charts for most materials you incouter in construction. Emissivity is the radiation radiated form the surface of a material. Materials absorb at the same rate they emit. Efficiency: Glass, absorb/emit about 95 %, foam (petroleum) about 80%, aluminum foil about .05%.

One of the problems is that the FG people have instailled in you what they want you to belive about their products. The truth is about 100 miles from what their truth is. Go into BOCA web site, Click the evaluation services and then view by division and section. Div. 07 and then section 07210. Please find any listing of a residential FG product that was tested for thermal properties. NADA. BUT, there is one for bubble foil. Now if you ask a FG salsman why they are not listed, their answer is that every body knows how good FG is and they don't need to list. WRONG ANSWER. The real answer is that they would have to submit tests of the INSTALLL CONDITIONS which they know by their own published results means they would have about 1/2 the "R" factors. And we haven't even gotten in to the severe health problems relating to the product. So why even consider it, unless you're not concerned about the welfare of yourself or your customers.

Peel off a very thin section of FG and hold it against the light. I have a $100.00 bill if you can find a definded cell structure in the FG. A 3 1/2" FG batt is equal to about a .032" thk glass pane. Its almost all air, OPEN AIR. How can FG hold heat. And define heat please. It's an adjective or pronoun at best. Energy radiates thru it at the speed of light. If FG can be ligitamitly classified as an insulation, then please explain the advantages of a product that allows the interior temp of a home to go up to 10-15 degrees over the out side temperature, stores heat energy for latter release and can kill the occupants in the process.

In order for you to understand why FG is not necessary you are going to have to rethink about how energy REALLY moves. If radiant energy consitutes about 80% of the heat gain/loss and foil is 95% efficient in reflecting it, then doesn't make sense to use a material that is most effective against the type of energy flow you are incontering? Keep in mind that only about 12% avg. is conduction the rest convection. Conduction doesd not come into play unless the radiant factor is interferred with.

You must belive that RBs are expensive. They range in price, material, from me, $0.20/sf to abou $0.36/ sf, single to multilayer. Even if they where more expensive wouldn't the fact that a RB home is going to save about 50% in energy over FG off set that?

In the St. louis area I charge about $.40/sf installed walls, two layer and $.50/sf three layer ceilings. So if that means a $100.00 surchag\rge over FG against an average savings of about $300.-400, isn't it worth it?

I have a cold so this all you get right now.

Thank you for considering my opinion.

 

rbiys,
Putting down FG does not make RB look better.
This is not a political election; nothing around here will change after Nov 5.
I like both materials; they each have their niche.
you are giving me an impression that you don't understand FG very well. or maybe you are refusing to understand it.
Just because it is your 'baby' doesnt mean everyone elses baby looks ugly.

Can you give me some detailed specifications on your three layer system; material, dimensions, etc.?

hope you get better.

 

Greetings,

I understand FG all too well, can't you tell by me detailed comments. I have a standing offer that any one who can produce a summer/winter installed conditions test from a government approved NAVLAP lab, showing that FG can achive their adver'd "R" values, I will do their next job free of charge any material any size.

I don't think you're really looking at what I said. Go on the web look up radiant barriers, look up FG litigation, look up FG related health problems. Look up FG and see how they ignore all their problems. Why support a loser. By the way I understand your problem. You've been installing this stuff thinking it's the cat's meow and here I come along and steal the meow. That's the way it goes. I was taken in too, once. This is one of those situations where everyone starts out suffering from FG induced mental dysfunctioalism and hopefully they get cured along the way. Once you know you'll wonder how you could ever have been taken in.

E-mail me your address and I'll send you some samples.

Thank you for considering my opinion.