floor treatment
#1
12-09-02, 10:21 AM
floor treatment
I am wanting to finish my basement. I fixed all of the foundation cracks with a cement compound and put a coat of waterproof paint on the walls.
What should I do with the floors? The basement is dry but I don't want to take any chances with water seaping in from the floor. I plan to put carpet down and a little stone tile. What product should I use that will seal the floor and allow an adhesive to stick to the floor for the carpet and tile?
Need the info? Thanks
What should I do with the floors? The basement is dry but I don't want to take any chances with water seaping in from the floor. I plan to put carpet down and a little stone tile. What product should I use that will seal the floor and allow an adhesive to stick to the floor for the carpet and tile?
Need the info? Thanks
#2
12-09-02, 05:04 PM
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goodcoz,
Most applications for sealing the concrete floor are not good if you are considering a glue down carpet application. For one the products don't mix well after a time, EVEN THOUGH THEY SAY IT IS ALL RIGHT. I have come into a home to find that the carpeting has broken loose from the concrete floor. Basically the adhesive did well staying attached to the carpet backing but the seperation occured between adhesive and concrete sealer or paint.
I would suggest using a good sealer available through Home Depot if you feel it is necessary. Sealers penetrates the concrete's surface and reacts with the composition to fill pore spaces and voids. Treatment with this product increases the strength of the concrete and renders the concrete's surface less permeable by moisture BUT NOT WATERPROOF. Experience has shown that most water infiltration problems are going to occur at the wall/floor edge of the basement unless you have significant cracking within the basement floor. Trying to seal these doesn't work. Hydronic pressure will allow water to get in. This is why drain tiles with sump pumps work well, it catches the water before it gets to the seam at the corners, allowing for a dry floor.
If you say that the floor has not been a problem and you have done a good job of sealing the walls, I would consider a capert tack strips and place the pad, loosely, and apply carpeting in the traditional manner. This will allow any moisture to evaporate. IF you have more moisture than that, I would reconsider your floor system and have attached a link for your review;
http://www.extension.iastate.edu/Pub...ons/PM1562.pdf
Hope this helps!
Most applications for sealing the concrete floor are not good if you are considering a glue down carpet application. For one the products don't mix well after a time, EVEN THOUGH THEY SAY IT IS ALL RIGHT. I have come into a home to find that the carpeting has broken loose from the concrete floor. Basically the adhesive did well staying attached to the carpet backing but the seperation occured between adhesive and concrete sealer or paint.
I would suggest using a good sealer available through Home Depot if you feel it is necessary. Sealers penetrates the concrete's surface and reacts with the composition to fill pore spaces and voids. Treatment with this product increases the strength of the concrete and renders the concrete's surface less permeable by moisture BUT NOT WATERPROOF. Experience has shown that most water infiltration problems are going to occur at the wall/floor edge of the basement unless you have significant cracking within the basement floor. Trying to seal these doesn't work. Hydronic pressure will allow water to get in. This is why drain tiles with sump pumps work well, it catches the water before it gets to the seam at the corners, allowing for a dry floor.
If you say that the floor has not been a problem and you have done a good job of sealing the walls, I would consider a capert tack strips and place the pad, loosely, and apply carpeting in the traditional manner. This will allow any moisture to evaporate. IF you have more moisture than that, I would reconsider your floor system and have attached a link for your review;
http://www.extension.iastate.edu/Pub...ons/PM1562.pdf
Hope this helps!
