Basement Remodel on a budget

Are there any experienced ideas that can be shared with me?

I am lucky enough to have a dry basement that I currently utilize in the summer. But because of the lack of insulation and 50 year old windows (there are six) the basement feels like a cave from November to April.

The previous owner installed 2x3 studs around the perimeter and against the foundation on three walls, 16 inches apart and nailed on paneling. There is also a drop ceiling, with no insulation which I intend on raising about 9 inches- with a little rerouting of electric and copper plumbing.

Since the six windows are odd shape (I cannot use stock). I found a dealer that will custom make all six for about seven hundred dollars (ouch)!.

Here are my thoughts on the rest of the project.

1)Remove ceiling and paneling. (since walls are dry - I was hoping to skip painting the concrete walls) What do you think?

2) Leave the existing studs in place and insulate with fiberglass bats between studs and in crevice where ceiling meets foundation walls. (do I need vapor barrier) Should I use insulation that radiates heat back into the basement with the "shiny material " on the inside?

3) Put paneling back up and paint it.

4) insulate ceiling in same manner with "shiny side" facing down into basement?

5) Re-install drop ceiling, re-using tracks( Save money) but replacing wiith new 2x2 ceiling tiles. Any recomendations on ceiling tiles that help insulate?

I don't plan on adding heat to the basement- I currently have an oil fired system that throws off a lot of heat, and the supply and return lines run the entire length and partial width of basement.

I was wondering if I could put some fins on these lines, possibly replacing the return or supply line with a length of baseboard on the ceiling?

Any thoughts?

Thanks,

 

Raamo,

You're asking alot of questions that are considered "buyer's preference" so it is your choice as to what to do.

You didn't indicate what you are going to use the area for so I am unsure how to answer most questions. This just seem like you want to give it a facelift and that's it. Seems like alot of work for minimal return.

If the basement is dry, you can do anything you like. No need to paint the walls if you don't want to. What you describes seems fine except for insulating the ceiling - if this room has alot of heat in it, you may want to let it radiant upwards unless you're wanting it to retain more than it has now or for sound barrier.

If radiant insulation is what you are after, go ahead but the expense here seems to be more than you need to spend. Use kraft faced insulation only.

Removing the existing ceiling and reusing the existing amterials is time consuming and all you are getting is 9 inches more headroom.

Putting baseboard heating fin on the ceiling isn't going to do anything there.

Removal and reinstallation of paneling and then paint it again seems like a lot of work, and then you will have holes in it, and if the paneling is even salvageable.

Good Luck!

 

Almost every window manufacturer will custom make a window in any size you want, for only 10-20% over the standard price. Shop around. You can even order them at Home Depot. I think new windows are your best investment. Get double-paned (almost all are these days).

Next, make sure your rim joint is well insulated. This can be done very cheaply.

Insulating the ceiling won't do much for warmth, but it will help with sound. Put your money into insulating to the outside -- not to the inside. And yes, you'll need a vapor barrier on the warm side of the insulation.

 

Thanks for your replies.

COncerning the vapor barrier, - where would it exactly go?

SInce there are 2x3 studs already in place(I really don't want to remove them), and they are butted up against the concrete basement foundation, Would I put the vapor barrier over the studs and insulation- and then put up the paneling?

Another question? The Lowes folks suggested that I install
insulation panels over the studs (long length parallel to the floor and then when I re-install the paneling it would have more strength? Does this make sense? If so, would I put the vapor between the insulation panels and the finished paneling?

FYI - I plan on using the basement as a game room for my 7 and 8 year olds, and as a hideout for myself (TV, computer and home-office -when they are not there of course)

Thanks.....

 

Yes, that's where the vapor barrier goes. Its purpose is to prevent warm moist air from traveling through the insulation and having moisture condense inside the wall as the air gets closer to the cold foundation.

The Lowe's method would increase the insulating value, at the cost of more space -- you'd need to put new 2x2s horizontally over the existing 2x3s to give you something to attach the paneling to. This would also give you adequate room for electrical boxes.

Or even better would be to build a 2x4 stud wall in front of the foundation (not touching), and insulate between the studs.

 

"2) ... Should I use insulation that radiates heat back into the basement with the "shiny material " on the inside?"

I would use non-backed fg batt insulation stuffed between the existing studs. Then use 3 - 6 mil sheet plastic as your vapor barrier between the studs and your finish wall.

"3) Put paneling back up and paint it."

If the paneling has been up any length of time, it probably won't be able to be reused after you take it down. It becomes very brittle with age. Drywall is the biggest thorn in my side as a DIYer because of the time & mess, but the end result is well worth it. It's cheaper than decent paneling, too.

"4) insulate ceiling in same manner with "shiny side" facing down into basement?"

Again, unbacked batt works well here. You won't need the vapor barrier because there won't be a huge difference in temperature between floors. It's used primarily for sound insulation.

"5) Re-install drop ceiling, re-using tracks( Save money) but replacing wiith new 2x2 ceiling tiles. Any recomendations on ceiling tiles that help insulate?"

Standard "acoustical" tiles provide a bit of sound deadening and thermal insulation properties, but are designed to absorb sounds from below rather than above. (Painting over the holes reduces their effectiveness.) You can avoid using batt between joists if you use fg-backed tiles. They're widely available. Be sure to allow for the added thickness when re-hanging the grid.

"I was wondering if I could put some fins on these lines, possibly replacing the return or supply line with a length of baseboard on the ceiling?"

Heat rises, so I can't see how this could be very efficient. Can't you just tap a line and install a new length of baseboard?