A couple of difficulties.


  #1  
Old 01-06-03, 11:41 AM
Sutquig
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A couple of difficulties.

I have read many of the posts here, but would like some advice on a couple of things.

I will be installing a drop ceiling system. The cinder-block walls were painted with dry-lock by the previous owners, but there is a good amount of that sloughing off on the lower 2ft of the walls. A couple of years ago I cleaned the walls and used an "etching" solution that dry-lock sells. After repainting it, it is coming off again. So I am not going to bother again. The basement has been dry for over 5 years now after I took steps to repair downspouts and buried 4 foot of stone in all of the window wells. My main sewer drain in the basement goes around all of the walls, so I am offsetting the studs by about 7 inches. I am using P/T on the bottom. I plan on installing R19 kraft faced between the studs with no plastic. Since the walls are 7 inches out, I assume any moisture will evaporate (I have a dehumidifier on auto setting to keep the air dry).

Here are my questions:

Is there any reason to insulate the floor above?

Since I am 7 inches out, what is the best way to "box" in the windows to still allow light in?

Also, I have a crawl space with an opening of about 3ft by 4ft under a laundry room. I want to seal it because it is very cold in that crawl space. But I still want to be able to get in there if I need to. Any ideas on how to do this and still have it look nice? I guess I could put in a door even though half of it would open to a wall.

I have two pillars holding up a steel I-beam. I once saw some wood product to wrap around them to make them look nice, but now I can't find anything. Any ideas besides boxing them in?

Thank you very much for any ideas.
 
  #2  
Old 01-06-03, 09:30 PM
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Maybe installing the walls 7" out would be easiest but maybe this may give a cramped feeling when all said and done. Would it be possible to make a ledge, if you will, once you are above the sewer pipe. Just an idea - I know, more work!

If you building this all the way to the ceiling, the issue regarding the windows is to build a box a "sloped light shaft box" for your windows. Angle the sides/bottom. If painted white, it would allow for light reflection so that you don't feel robbed of the light that would be just within a traditional box.

With regards to the crawl space, I am assuming that this is vented. If you want, make a paneled acces panel and apply either some blanket insulation to the back side but I would use rigid insualtion, apply about 2 layers of 2" to it. make sure it is a good fit into the framed access hole. This wold help alot.

Regading your poles, I have attached a link for flexible veneering products. These are available at Home Depot or a good lumber yard.

http://www.polewrap.com/

Hope this helps!
 
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Old 01-07-03, 06:25 AM
Sutquig
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I thought hard about boxing in the pipes. There are several reasons why I don't want to box them in. 1) I finished off the basement in my last house and boxed in EVERYTHING. This was a mistake as it only made the taping and spackling job much MUCH harder. 2) Since my kids will be using the basement and these pipes are just about 4-5ft from the floor, I think boxing them in will create a head-banging hazzard. 2) Since the basement is setup as one big area, it's not a great loss. Too bad though, because it could make a nice ledge for trains or something.

OK, I'll do that with the windows. I also plan on removing the original single pane and installing either solid blocks or small vinyl sliders.

Good idea with the rigid insulation. I'll put some low-density self-stick insulation on the edges to help with the fit. Yes, this space is vented - but I might make the vent larger since I will be covering the access.

Those pole covers are exactly what I was looking for! Thank you!

Thank you for your time!

PS. How about the ceiling? Is it worth it to insulate the floor above if installing a drop ceiling?
 
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Old 01-07-03, 06:52 AM
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Sutquig,

Glad the advice and links helped! I understand your points on the sewer pipe box issue. I thought they were down lower. Sorry I suggested it.

Just use some construction adhesive on the rigid, it will stick forever. There is no reason to make your vents larger, leave them as is. They should had been sized already based on the space.

I'm glad this is what you were looking for regarding your poles. Easy to work with, takes just a few minutes to do it.

I wouldn't waste my time with the ceiling, since you having a drop ceiling no reason to put out more bucks than you have to. The main points of insulation should be the concrete walls and rim joist area. With your new windows, this should also help.

Good Luck and let us know how it's going!
 
 

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