Furring out for basement ceiling?

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Old 01-25-03, 07:11 AM
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Furring out for basement ceiling?

I need to install a waste vent for the basement bathroom I am building. The rough drain I plan to tie the vent into is about 20 feet from where it needs to tie into the vent stack. And its caddy corner meaning I need to cross several joists to get to it. I'm thinking that punching holes in the joists (12" TJI) is not the way to go. I assume I need to maintain the standard 1/4" per foot slope for this vent. I would cross joists for about 12' and then go between joists for another 12'. I know a drop ceiling would solve my problem but am not crazy about the aesthetics of this. Would furring the joists with 2x6's be an option?

Along these same lines, I also need to accommodate a bathroom ventilation fan/vent which needs to go a long way. This will initially go between joists again for about 12'. But then needs to go about 20 feet to an outside wall. Is the 1/4" per foot slope generally required for fan-forced ventilation systems too? I know someone will ask why I need to go so far with this so the answer is the bathroom is roughed in the front of the house, right below the front stoop and it is a brick-faced home out in the woods. I want the vent on the exposed, aluminum-sided side of the house for ease of installation through the sidewall and also to keep the vent up high so critters are less likely to put out their welcome mats.

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Old 01-25-03, 09:16 PM
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DIY_Dave,

I am under the impression that you haven't pulled a permit for this project?

Well, I will suggest something for your plumbing issue that may make it easier than what you described you think you need. This would eliminate all that furring down stuff which takes time. The Studor Air Admittance System is acceptable for installation in virtually all building code jurisdictions in the U.S., including the SBCCI, BOCA, CABO, IRC and IPC plumbing codes. To avoid any problems if you would like to use Studor valves in new construction or remodeling projects, you should contact your local building code officials for specific approval status for your area.

http://www.studor.com/

http://www.plumbingworld.com/autovent.html

With regards to the bathroom venting, I will have to say that running it 20 feet is to far for a standard size or een larger fan to get the moisture outside. Reason being it will condensate before it even reaches the outside - then you might have problems if there is a hole in anything. THe answer is no on this having to need a slope. I personnally would recommend going out the brick side as close to the bathroom as possible. The vents available have metal screening so you wouldn't have to worry about "critters".

Hope this helps!
 
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Old 01-26-03, 07:20 AM
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Thanks for the information Doug. I'm not sure how you got that impression though. Actually, I have gotten the permits. Had you said you had the impression I've never done anything like this before, you would have been right.

I thought I saw something in the plumbing forum that implied the Studor vents were not that readily accepted as code? But I'll check with the local inspector. And, yeah, I probably should go through the brick.

Thanks again.
 
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Old 01-26-03, 08:26 AM
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DIY_Dave,

Sorry if I did assume wrong, the question seemed unusual in nature regarding the distance, etc.

Anyways, I made a mistake. The issue of the Studor vents is one that some plumbers do have problems with but as I pointed out, it is approved in MANY areas of the country and meets the guidelines set by SBCCI, BOCA, CABO, IRC and IPC. I only thought in your situation that this might be the best choice considering location and the like. As you said, check with your local officials and hopefully your work will be cut in half if not more!

Good Luck and let us know!
 
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