I am currently finishing my walk-out basement, which is approximately 1600' and has 11' ceilings (to the joists). Because of the joist height, I can drop down the ceiling to 8 1/2' and have a flat ceiling throughout the basement. What I started to do, is, where possible, I have layed the 12' steel studs of edge, resting them on the framed walls or attached them to the vertical wall studs, and then attached an 18" stud vertically every 3', from the 12' ceiling stud to the floor joist above. I also layed flat and connected an addtional 2x4 steel stud (running across all of the studs) on top of the ceiling studs to prevent any twisting mid-span. After completing one room in this manner, the ceiling assembly appears to be very sturdy and solid (it looks like a grid). Is this method OK, or is there any additional tips and/or advice that would assist me in my efforts? (I plan on using 1/4" drywall on the ceilings to reduce the weight and stress on the floor joists, as well.) Thanks in advance for your time and feedback. Ted

I have a basement with half walls, 6 1/2 blocks high. The top part of the wall and ceiling are finished, so I am looking to insulate and finish the bottom half only. The problem I have is the french drain. Is it a code violation to "block" it? I'm not sure what it's purpose really is- to allow water to be moved from the basement floor (it's dry, we haven't had water problems). OR is it just to move ground moisture to the sump pump and is not really related to the inside floor. If the latter, then I'm wondering if you can frame around it? If there was no french drain, I would frame the lower half by having PT wood on the floor even with the edge of the drain, studs not touching block, then a short 2x4 connecting stud to wood frame on top of block. Then a finished wood "shelf" on top of that all the way around. Block is already drylocked and moisture issues solved (new gutters, downspouts directed away etc.) Vapor barrier and insulate as described on this board for cold winter (north east)... If blocking the drain is not a good idea, what about partially blocking it. Leaving gaps every 6-8 feet on floor so there is access. Covered with rubber kick moulding after drywall say 2 inches above floor? Any ideas appreciate, really stuck on how to proceed. Thanks, Steve