Basement Wall refinish

I'm in the process of refinishing my basement, which was previously finished using furring strips and paneling. My plan is to hang a vapor barrier, build out 2x4 walls, insulate, then drywall.

I was originally going to leave the furring strips on the wall, but I'm currently thinking that this could be an issue with moisture and potentially mold. What is the recommended approach removing existing furring strips and patch or leave up? What type of insulation is best used in this plan faced or unfaced batting?

 

Cwilliams,

I would remove the curring strips and do the following;

The best and most economical way to construct walls that would be placed on the exterior walls is 2x4 but as mentioned by others they can get 2x3's. You still need that W/T plate. Doing the framing 16" O.C. provides a solid base for your 1/2" drywall.

The reason to keep the wood out from the walls is the moisture that could damage them. Using larger insulation like R-19 would touch the walls. I have stated before that if a homeowner did put thicker insulation in, and the wall was only 1" from the masonry surface, I recommended hanging a vapor barrier between the back of the wall and masonry surface. This doesn't allow for the insulation to touch the wall and air movement is not restricted but at least you won't create damage to the insulation or wood. If you do want to increase the R value, move the wall out further or use the R-13 and then apply a rigid insulation over the studs (warm side) then drywall (not paneling) *Code advises a 15 minute fire rated material over any rigid insulation - 1/2" Drywall* You can then put paneling over this if desired to met code.

Kraft faced insulation is fine to use in the above scenario. No need for the poly and you can do everything easily. You may find this easier and I would do this versus unfaced and vapor barrier because I don't like to play with it any more than I have to.

Let me add one other thing, rigid insulation used on a concrete/masonry surface is fine. Considerations to make in using this is;

1. If you are just using 1 1/2" rigid and furring strips - A. You need W/T strips to protect the wood. B. The strips can be adhesively applied but they must be solid - mechanical anchors may have to be used to insure that if shelving is installed it will hold. C. Any electrical boxes will have to be shallow - sometimes makes it hard to wire. D. You must use a fire retardant material over this as per Code.

(Most books, articles about rigid and furring strips fail to say anything about the use of W/T and this will get destroyed and be a good source for mold/mildew with the slightest hint of moisture)

2. Alternative which does add cost is to apply full rigid sheets to the concrete/masonry walls, adhesively applied, then place frame wall against the rigid, then insulate between studs and cover with drywall. The rigid does then act as a vapor barrier. Do not tape/seal the seams. This allows it to breath and dry up any condensation that may form.

Hope this helps!

 

Thanks for the info Doug. When removing the furring strips should I be filling the nail holes in the cement block with hydraulic cement?

 

Cwilliams,

You could but if your basement walls are not coated with a waterproofing type coating, it is a waste of time. Any water that is going to get into the cores will surely come through the holes but also through the block. You may want to consider waterproofing before you do all your work just to make sure your investment is protected as much as possible. Try Drylok at Home Depot.

Hope this helps!

 

Doug -
I'm considering the same project as cwilliams. I don't understand some of the terminology you use, so if you don't mind, could I get some clarification? 1. I don't know what W/T plate stands for, and 2. Hanging a vapor barrior?
Thanks for your help

 

swimmerone,

No problem... W/T stands for Wood Treated lumber and this is used where wood is in contact with concrete/block. This is required by Code. This applies to either horizontal or vertical placement.

The issue of "hanging a vapor barrier" was stated for those who try and over-insulate a standard 2x4 wall cavity with"thicker" insulation. When and if they do, the insulation may come in contact with the wall which you do not want. Hanging it by just stapling it to a sill plate or joists just protects it from getting wet, it does not stop ventilation which is needed to prevent condensation. You do not seal any overlaps of the poly with tape or caulk.

When the walls are built as I have described in my earlier post, the need for this vapor barrier is not needed against the block but a vapor barrier such as poly,with the use of unfaced insulation, is required on the warm side of the wall or just use kraft faced insulation which voids the use of the poly.

Hope this helps!

 

Thanks for the prompt reply, Doug,

W/T sounds like what I call pressure treated wood...
I've re-read your wall desciption several times now, and am still a bit lost, so I'll pose a few more questions if you don't mind.

I first get lost when you say "You still need that W/T plate." Is this a furring strip tacked to the wall upon which you nail the 2x4's? When you say poly, do you mean rigid board insulation?


I have this vision of the wall looking like:

concrete basement wall-air-2x4's nailed to basement ceiling joists-kraft faced instulationstapled to 2x4's-drywall.

Essentially, nothing touches the concrete basement wall. If it did, it would have to be W/T 2x4's, right? They don't appear to be deep enough to have kraft faced insulation in them and not have the insulation touch the concrete walls, though

 

swimmerone,

W/T is "pressure treated wood".

In preparing to do a basement remodel, the framing methods used above grade apply. I prepare a wall, height just short of actual needed and use shims at top if necessary where attaching. Frame it as I would upstairs except there is no "Double Top Plate" just a single. Double's would be used for load bearing areas but most, if not all existing basements do not require this.

Poly (just shorter than spelling it all out..sorry) is referring to a plastic vapor barrier. Rigid is rigid insulation.

From the Concrete/Block Wall;

1" Space - Ventilation requirement
2x4 Wall, Bottom Plate to be W/T - studs and horizontal top plate - standard 2x4
R-13 Maximum - Unfaced insulation (FRICTION FIT) with a vapor barrier applied to the arm side of studs ALTERNATIVE: Kraft faced stapled to studs - No additional vapor barrier needed.
1/2" Drywall, tape and paint

R-13 is 3 1/2" deep - 2x4's are 3 1/2" deep - what is confusing you?

 

Doug -



Thanks for spelling it out for me more clearly. I completely understand now.

What was confusing me was just a lack of knowledge of terminology, and I was thinking R19 not R13 for thickness.

Thanks again for your prompt reply.

 

swimmerone.

You're very welcome! If you need anything, just ask us here at the Forum!