stringer and tread

Old 02-15-03, 11:21 AM
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Question stringer and tread

hi again I intend to build a straight stairway in my house which is a bungalow the rise is approx 106" and the run 130" and (32 inches wide) . I plan to have one stringer against the hall wall and I intend to have the other side an open stringer (where the ends of the treads overhangs the stringer), would 10x2 white deel timber be good enough for the stringers (cant find 10x2 pine I am in Ireland).
I plan to have a bull nose starting step but cant seem to find a curved riser locally (they have the bull nose step but not the riser) any ideas?
How do I attach the base of the spindles (Baluster) to the treads?
do I locate the spindles directly over the line of the stringer?
how much tread do I overhang the stringer?
the treads here comes in 14 foot lengths of wood what do I do with the cut end of the tread that overhangs the stringer? (I don't have a router)
As you can probably tell this is my first attempt at stairs but I'm going to give it a go.
Any help would be greatly appreciated
Old 02-15-03, 05:01 PM
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I may be way off base with your project but I think I am pretty close to knowing your exact problem. By the dimensions you gave, using a 7 1/2" rise you are just right. You did not say what width of materials you were using for the treads, but you have plenty of room. Your tread should extend over the end of your riser about 1/2" . Your ballisters need to be very securely attached to your stairs. Many attach them to the front of the riser
with either bolts or long screws. Sometimes they will drill up thru the bottom and insert wooden pins up thru the ballisters. Hope this helps you some. Good Luck
Old 02-15-03, 06:49 PM
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Jack, it seems our numbers differ slightly....??

If he has a total rise from finished floor to finished floor of 106", and he uses 14 risers/13 treads then his per step riser height should be 7 9/16. Actually it is 7.57" which translates closest to 7 9/16". If he did a riser height of 7.5" he would end up being 13/16" of an inch off at the top step and that would not meet code, at least not here in GA. Maximum variation allowed is 3/8".

I would go with a stair stringer with 13 treads and 14 risers. This means that your top step would be one riser height below the second story finished floor (it gives you the shortest run). Individual riser height of 7 9/16". If your total run is only 130", I would go for a 9.75" stringer tread cut and then actually cut the tread material to be 10.5" long. This will put the end of your stair stringers out at 126 3/4", and when you add your 3/4" thick riser and 1/2" nosing on the stair tread, you will have a finished run of 128". If the noising of the tread can stick out for a total finished run of 131 1/4" then you could cut your stringers to have a 10" run. Also, don't forget to drop the riser height of the first step by the thickness of the tread material and to reduce the run of the topmost step the thickness of the riser material. By this I mean if your tread stock material is exactly 1" thick, then your first step riser height will only be 6 9/16" tall. All other steps will be the usual 7 9/16". And if your riser material is exactly 3/4" thick, then your topmost step should have the stringer cut to a 9" tread cut. It's critical to getting the steps to be uniform and to meet codes. Install the finished riser material first, then install the treads.

Perkins, I am not sure what lumber you can use for stringers in the fine area of Ireland, but if you fly me over there I'll be happy to help you look! Beautiful country out there though I suspect it is a bit cold right about now. I would ask around lumber supply yards and see what they use for framing in your area. You will want something 12" deep though and not 10" deep for long term use. For the cut ends of your treads, if you are wanting them to be left visible (i.e. no carpet), I would invest in a router to give them a finished edge.

Hope some of that made sense!

Old 02-19-03, 09:08 PM
Join Date: Dec 1999
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Woodsong: You took alot of time to do those calculations. Yes, by my calculations it is also off about 5/8"'s . However, I was putting my off step on the bottom, and not on the top, which is ok. I also used the new dimension lumber cuts.

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