Attaching steel stud tracks...

Is it a bad idea to only use an adhesive to attach the stud track?

If not, what is the best way to attach a steel stud track to the floor of my basement short of nailing it into the concrete?

Is there an adhesive that is recommended to glue the stud track to the floor?

Thanks,
Nathan

 

NathanH,

Options for doing steel studs in basements is to install a W/T plate (with adhesive if desired) or using a hilti - ramset. I say this as you are or will need a backing to apply base trim down. If you are trying to install steel studs by use of adhesive only, I'd have to say no. Your choices to anchor these is hilti or plastic anchors drilled into the floor and then scew plate down. problem here is it is time consuming!

Also steel studs will require use of wood around door openings for door jamb/trim applications.

Hope this helps!

 

Thanks, Doug!

My notion was to install a stud track at the top and bottom of the frame, using adhesive on the bottom plate to attach to the concrete, and using screws on the top plate to attach to the wooden floor joists above. I wanted to make sure an adhesive on the bottom plate would be strong enough by itself.

I will adhere a W/T plate around the bottom edge as well for trim.

By the way, I found an awesome product at Menards for flooring called DriCore (http://www.dricore.com/). Looks very easy to install and basement-worthy!

Thanks!
Nathan

 

Nathan,

You're getting slow...do a search and you'll find that DriCore has been mentioned alot in this forum! It's been out along time! I have even talked to the Company about its history and product uses.

Why not anchor the wood with a hilti? It's fast and easy. You can rent them at Home Depot or your local tool rental facility.

Hope all goes well for you in your endeavor. Keep us informed!

 

Indeed I am slow! This is my first major house project - much to my chagrin...

Check out my work in progress at my site and click on basement project .

 

NathanH,

Cats look cool but the basement pics are too dark. I'm glad you installed the water powered sump pump backup. I can't beleive people buy the baterry back up ones. They don't last and like the First Alert smoke detectors, if the battery goes dead or goes weak, they don't work! I've installed the Guardian emergency pumps and they work really great! Best guarantee around to keep basements dry! Not cheap but like most things, if it costs and it works, you're saving money.

So what about the hilti rental?

 

Thanks, Doug!

Agreed on the backup pump! I paid the original plumber of our house $225 for everything (pump included), but it was the best insurance policy I've ever purchased.

With regards to the wood plate - are you talking about anchoring the wood to the steel stud track or the cement floor? And I've heard somewhere that nailing things into the cement floor may not be such a great idea. If it is better to go the nailing/anchor route, I'll just visit the "Father in law with tons of tool" rental shop.

I'd like to avoid having anything wooden touch the cement. I don't get much if any water in my basement, but my sump pump does run when it rains, so I'm concerned that some day I may (house is only 2 years old).

 

NathanH,

With regards to the wood plate, its anchored to the floor - Use a W/T plate as per Code. Nailing into concrete floor is not going to hurt anything so disregard what you have read. Ramset nails don't pentrate the floor more than 3/4" at most! I've been doing this too long and know better. It's faster and effective!

If you are having moistures issues along the perimeter of your basement walls now then maybe a sealer should be applied. Not sure how you're going to do all this but I have attached an article for your review. W/T lumber touching the floor is required by code so don't worry about this. I gather you have been misinformed along the way. If you sump pump is running and no water is present at permiter of walls, it's suppose to work that way!

I guess this is the best and most economical way to construct walls that would be placed on the exterior. I prefer to see 2x4 but as mentioned by others they can get 2x3's. You still need that W/T plate. Doing the framing 16" O.C. provides a solid base for your 1/2" drywall. If using traditional framing method, frame your new wall 1" from the vertical block/masonry surface if using R-13. The reason to keep the wood out from the walls is the moisture that could damage them. If using insulation like R-19 and only 2x4 studs, the insulation would touch the walls. I have stated before that if a homeowner did put thicker insulation in, and the wall was only 1" from the masonry surface, I have recommended hanging a vapor barrier between the back of the wall and masonry surface. This doesn't allow for the insulation to touch the wall and air movement is not restricted but at least you won't create damage to the insulation or wood. If you do want to increase the R value, move the wall out further or use the R-13 and then apply a rigid insulation over the studs (warm side) then drywall (not paneling) *Code advises a 15 minute fire rated material over any rigid insulation - 1/2" Drywall*..

Kraft Faced insulation is fine to use in the above scenario. No need for the poly and you can do everything easily. You may find this easier and I would do this versus unfaced and vapor barrier because I don't like to play with it any more than I have to.

Let me add one other thing, rigid insulation used on a concrete/masonry surface is fine. Considerations to make in using this is;

1. If you are just using 1 1/2" rigid and furring strips - A. You need W/T strips to protect the wood. B. The strips can be adhesively applied but they must be solid - mechanical anchors may have to be used to insure that if shelving is installed it will hold. Problem with this is, the penetration into a sealed concrete/masonry surface is damaged and subject to leaking. C. Any electrical boxes will have to be shallow - sometimes makes it hard to wire. D. You must use a fire retardant material over this as per Code.

(Most books, articles about rigid and furring strips fail to say anything about the use of W/T and this will get destroyed and be a good source for mold/mildew with the slightest hint of moisture)

2. Alternative which does add cost is to apply full rigid sheets to the concrete/masonry walls, adhesively applied, then place frame wall against the rigid, then insulate between studs and cover with drywall. The Rigid insulation does then act as a the vapor barrier. Do not tape/seal the seams. This allows it to breath and dry up any condensation that may form.

Hope this helps!

 

Doug - thanks so much for your valued input!

Let me run this by you and make sure I now have a viable solution:

All the walls get coated with a concrete water sealer.

Steel stud 2/4 framing will be about an inch from the wall at 16" on center.

The top steel stud track gets attached to the floor joists above with some screws. The bottom stud track sits on a W/T 2x4 plate on which will rest the bottom stud track. I'll probably go the nailing route

I'm planning on using 15" X 3 1/2" kraft faced insultation, and will stuff the gaps created by the steel studs with extra insulation.

Whadya think?

Nathan

 

NathanH,

All that you said sounds fine but you should be able to get your hands on 16" wide unfaced (use poly then for vapor barrier) or kraft faced insulation (this is the vapor barrier).

Option: You could always frame your walls to accommodate the 15" wide rolls but I would think that you can do it 16" O.C. and obtain the 16" wide rolls through a major lumber yard, if need be.

If not available, then you could stuff the extra space as you mentioned but more likely than not, you should be able to pick up the 16" wide rolls.

Good Luck!