Chimney Removal from 1920's Colonial
#1
03-07-03, 11:14 AM
Chimney Removal from 1920's Colonial
If this should go in Architecture/Codes and not Attics, I apologize:
My church has partnered with a non-for-profit group that rehabs old homes in economically depressed areas and rents them to families just above the poverty line. (This group started due to the unsafe condition of most rental property in the neighborhood).
The majority of the people participating in do not have a lot of knowledge in the areas of improvement and remodeling and seem to think this is a pretty easy thing to do, but that's another story.
Okay, here's where I need some help/advice, the home in question is a two-story colonial with a large attic (12/12 roof pitch). The brick chimney runs right though the center of the house. The roof appears to be an old cedar roof that somebody put asphault shingles on top of 15-20 years ago.
Key point: The roof framing at its peak definitely looks like it's directly attached to/supported by the chimney.
The head of the non-for-profit group has decided 1) the furnace will be replaced with a 90% efficiency furnace that won't need a chimney, and 2) the attic will be converted into living space (I'm still trying to explain the meaning of "egress" to these folks, again, another story). So, the chimney is going to come out, they say.
Among the people in my church volunteering on this house, I appear to be the only one who thinks this will present a challenge, my questions are:
1) The chimney extends about 4 feet up from the peak of the roof. Would it be less dangerous to (a) scale the 12/12 roof, sink some ladder jacks at the base of the chimney, and take it down from the outside, or (b) secure a ladder in the attic, cut a hole in the roof near the chimney, climb out, and take it down that way?
2) For removing the chimney in the attic, how thick of a temporary floor should be constructed on the attic joists? Should the ladder be secured to the joists as well?
3) How could the peak of the roof best be temporarily secured after the chimney is removed? Is there a way to caculate the size of the beams used?
If the only answer to #1, #2, and #3 is "You need to bring a certified structural engineer on site," I have no problem communicating that to the group.
Thanks in advance,
--Chris.
My church has partnered with a non-for-profit group that rehabs old homes in economically depressed areas and rents them to families just above the poverty line. (This group started due to the unsafe condition of most rental property in the neighborhood).
The majority of the people participating in do not have a lot of knowledge in the areas of improvement and remodeling and seem to think this is a pretty easy thing to do, but that's another story.
Okay, here's where I need some help/advice, the home in question is a two-story colonial with a large attic (12/12 roof pitch). The brick chimney runs right though the center of the house. The roof appears to be an old cedar roof that somebody put asphault shingles on top of 15-20 years ago.
Key point: The roof framing at its peak definitely looks like it's directly attached to/supported by the chimney.
The head of the non-for-profit group has decided 1) the furnace will be replaced with a 90% efficiency furnace that won't need a chimney, and 2) the attic will be converted into living space (I'm still trying to explain the meaning of "egress" to these folks, again, another story). So, the chimney is going to come out, they say.
Among the people in my church volunteering on this house, I appear to be the only one who thinks this will present a challenge, my questions are:
1) The chimney extends about 4 feet up from the peak of the roof. Would it be less dangerous to (a) scale the 12/12 roof, sink some ladder jacks at the base of the chimney, and take it down from the outside, or (b) secure a ladder in the attic, cut a hole in the roof near the chimney, climb out, and take it down that way?
2) For removing the chimney in the attic, how thick of a temporary floor should be constructed on the attic joists? Should the ladder be secured to the joists as well?
3) How could the peak of the roof best be temporarily secured after the chimney is removed? Is there a way to caculate the size of the beams used?
If the only answer to #1, #2, and #3 is "You need to bring a certified structural engineer on site," I have no problem communicating that to the group.
Thanks in advance,
--Chris.
#2
03-07-03, 06:29 PM
Member
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 2,999
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Stop, Halt, Do Not Pass Go, send Lefty and I each $100.00.
Whatever you do, do not, I repeat do not take down this chimney until you have in your possession the new furnace. Once you have the chimney you have to do two things. First of all, read very carefully about the new furnace and the exhaust vent needed. Do not believe that no vent stuff. Next when you have the chimney, get your local building inspector there and have him look at it. If he says so, then you can take down your chimney.
If he allows you to take it down, e-mail me direct and I will tell you exactly how to do it. Good Luck.
Whatever you do, do not, I repeat do not take down this chimney until you have in your possession the new furnace. Once you have the chimney you have to do two things. First of all, read very carefully about the new furnace and the exhaust vent needed. Do not believe that no vent stuff. Next when you have the chimney, get your local building inspector there and have him look at it. If he says so, then you can take down your chimney.
If he allows you to take it down, e-mail me direct and I will tell you exactly how to do it. Good Luck.
#3
03-08-03, 08:45 PM
Jack,
Thanks for the reply. Your check is in the mail
The furnace is in the house, we have yet to grease it and squeeze it through the basement staircase. The plan is to run a modern PVC exhaust out the first floor, or all the way through the roof.
Good idea on the building inspector, I'll pass that on to the head of the organization.
Fun fact--the exterior of the house is cedar clapboard, wood siding, asphault siding, then vinyl siding. We had all kinds of fun replacing the windows with an 8" wall depth. . . .
Thanks for the reply. Your check is in the mail
The furnace is in the house, we have yet to grease it and squeeze it through the basement staircase. The plan is to run a modern PVC exhaust out the first floor, or all the way through the roof.
Good idea on the building inspector, I'll pass that on to the head of the organization.
Fun fact--the exterior of the house is cedar clapboard, wood siding, asphault siding, then vinyl siding. We had all kinds of fun replacing the windows with an 8" wall depth. . . .
