Studding my basement and hanging Drywall
#1
03-26-03, 05:09 AM
Studding my basement and hanging Drywall
I have poured concrete walls in my basement and the home builder installated the walls with what appears to
be a plastic backed installation which is bolted into the wall with bolts and washers. I want to finish off the basement. Can I put the studs in front of the installation , if so should I leave some space as not to crush the installation that is in place? Will this require more installation between the studs?
be a plastic backed installation which is bolted into the wall with bolts and washers. I want to finish off the basement. Can I put the studs in front of the installation , if so should I leave some space as not to crush the installation that is in place? Will this require more installation between the studs?
#2
03-26-03, 05:39 AM
Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: United States
Posts: 4,455
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Milt Price,
With what you have now, simply install a framed wall in front of this without squashing it. I guess this is the best and most economical way to construct walls that would be placed on the exterior. I prefer to see 2x4 but as mentioned by others they can get 2x3's. You still need that W/T plate. Doing the framing 16" O.C. provides a solid base for your 1/2" drywall. If using traditional framing method, frame your new wall. If you do want to increase the R value, you can add more in your framed wall but usually the continuous blanket you have should be at least a R-11.
So here is some more stuff....
1. Vapor barrier should be placed directly under the drywall. The warm inside air containing water vapor can get past the wall finish and insulation and condense inside the colder wall cavity. If enough of this happens, and the water cannot escape, wood rot, mold, and other moisture-related problems are likely to occur. For this reason, building codes often require installing a vapor diffusion retarder on the warmest side of the wall cavity. This is what is required in Minnesota;
"A 4 mill poly vapor barrier must be placed against all concrete or block exterior foundation walls prior to applying furring strips for full height of the wall. Another 4 mill poly vapor barrier must be placed over furring strips and insulation prior to covering with finish materials. (State Energy Code Requirement)" - MINNESOTA CODE
2. W/T is wood treated. International Residential Building Code says "it must be used whenever wood is in contact with concrete and/or masonry". Check it out with your local inspector.
Hope this helps!
With what you have now, simply install a framed wall in front of this without squashing it. I guess this is the best and most economical way to construct walls that would be placed on the exterior. I prefer to see 2x4 but as mentioned by others they can get 2x3's. You still need that W/T plate. Doing the framing 16" O.C. provides a solid base for your 1/2" drywall. If using traditional framing method, frame your new wall. If you do want to increase the R value, you can add more in your framed wall but usually the continuous blanket you have should be at least a R-11.
So here is some more stuff....
1. Vapor barrier should be placed directly under the drywall. The warm inside air containing water vapor can get past the wall finish and insulation and condense inside the colder wall cavity. If enough of this happens, and the water cannot escape, wood rot, mold, and other moisture-related problems are likely to occur. For this reason, building codes often require installing a vapor diffusion retarder on the warmest side of the wall cavity. This is what is required in Minnesota;
"A 4 mill poly vapor barrier must be placed against all concrete or block exterior foundation walls prior to applying furring strips for full height of the wall. Another 4 mill poly vapor barrier must be placed over furring strips and insulation prior to covering with finish materials. (State Energy Code Requirement)" - MINNESOTA CODE
2. W/T is wood treated. International Residential Building Code says "it must be used whenever wood is in contact with concrete and/or masonry". Check it out with your local inspector.
Hope this helps!
#4
04-02-03, 06:18 AM
You are enjoying a project that I am just about through with! I have the same basement (poured concrete, plastic wrapped insulation attached to the walls). When framing my basement I used 2X3's in front of the insulation. This kept me from having to pull down the insulation and reatach between the frames. I used 2X3's to allow the room size to remain as large as possible. It worked fine.
I also live in Anne Arundel County. Code requires that you attach a barrier between the top plate and the concrete wall (fire protection). I simply glued thin slices of drywall and the inspector was fine with it. Also, if you have a newer home, it is completely wrapped in a vapor barrier, so there is no code requirement to use pressure treated lumber on the base plates. I used it anyway just to be safe.
Good luck.
I also live in Anne Arundel County. Code requires that you attach a barrier between the top plate and the concrete wall (fire protection). I simply glued thin slices of drywall and the inspector was fine with it. Also, if you have a newer home, it is completely wrapped in a vapor barrier, so there is no code requirement to use pressure treated lumber on the base plates. I used it anyway just to be safe.
Good luck.
