Interior Weepint Tile


  #1  
Old 04-05-03, 05:48 PM
Don Pell
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Interior Weepint Tile

Our home was built in 1960, poured wall with the slab being built on dirt no gravell under the slab.I do have water comoin up around 2 1/2 walls.I have 3 prices on doing this work.The thing is that I think I can do this even with the help from you all.I have about 50 feet to dig up.I so far I know to break the floor up about 10 inches from the wall then dig down about 8 inches.remove the dirt lay some gravell than the pipe than more gravell tieing the pipe to a sumpit than cement over the pipe.Am i on the right track Please if anyone can help me here on does and donts that would be great.Is there a site that showes step by step on how to do this and what materials to use.I figure for parts it would cost me about 800 Canadian.for the pros they wanted 3500 to 6000 doing the same work so i could save alot on labour cost and doing it myself.Iam very handy at DIY jobs. so what do you think if more info is needed on my part no problim i am willing to stick it out.ps we do live in a little bit of high water table.i have done all the regular stuff outside to keep water from the foundtion this seams to be the only fix now.Thanks Don &Cindy.
 
  #2  
Old 04-05-03, 06:11 PM
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Don & Cindy,

The best way of keeping liquid water away from a foundation is to divert downspouts away from the house, and slope the ground away from the house. In that way any rain, snow melt, etc. will not drain down into the soil near the foundation. For any water that does drain down into the soil near the foundation, and also for any excessive ground water already in the soil from a high water table, a perimeter drain tile and stone or gravel backfill has been the standard approach. This is a waterproofing system. The same application is done to the "interior" of the lower level and this works extremely well especially in older homers when exterior applications cannot be done.
When liquid water gets into such a gravel backfill, it quickly runs down into the drain tile and is diverted away through a pipe either by gravity or a sump pump. When a drain tile is used, but soil is used for backfill, the water can't drain away as quickly, so it tries to drain through the foundation wall. If enough liquid water is present, hydrostatic pressure will force it through any opening it can find in the foundation wall, no matter how small.
The purpose of the stone or gravel backfill is to relieve the hydrostatic pressure. With the correct backfill material, the liquid water will travel the path of least resistance: through the backfill into the drain tile, rather than through the foundation wall. I will point out that drain tile comes in two styles - rigid and flexible. The rigid has a slot on one side and this is installed with slot down. The flexible has slots on 4 or 6 sides, if you will but this should be installed with a silt sock over it. Costs more but prevents silt from getting into the pipe. Most homes, for interior applications use the flexible but either is acceptable.
When the soil is merely damp, as it often is, liquid water isn't the problem. When damp soil is next to a foundation, it will cause the foundation to get damp. The dampness will work its way through the foundation wall and eventually enter the basement or crawl space. Concrete and masonry are actually very porous, so dampness can move through such materials fairly easily. (This is done through a process called capillary action.) Once the dampness reaches the interior surface, it can evaporate into the basement or crawl space, increasing the moisture in the air.
To stop the dampness is relatively easy because, by not being in liquid form, there is no hydrostatic pressure. A simple foundation coating will do the job. This coating is called dampproofing. It isn't a substitute for waterproofing.
Don't forget about 3/4 stone when you backfill around the draintile before applying concrete. When you are done, you will be very pleased with the results. It might be wise to drill holes in the bottom course block, in every core to allow any water that might be in the core/wall, it will quickly drain into the gravel area and then it will get collected into the drain tile and then into the sump basket. This will virtually eliminate any damp walls and problems not associated with wall/slab joints.

NOTE: Remove about 16" space out from wall. Ensure that you are about 8 inches out from footing. Dig a trench along the footing that slopes gradually towards a sump basin. Trench approaches the sump basin from two sides. Drill holes into each of the block cavities (2 per block) in the course of blocks that sits directly on top of the footing. Water now comes out of these holes when it rains. Place 4" corrugated drain pipe in the trench and run this all along the trench to the sump basket. You may use a silt cover or a silt sock which covers this pipe of which then you would place 3/4" pea gravel over this to a level that leaves about 4" of space for your new concrete. Place the concrete all the way to wall - NO SPACE IS REQUIRED. Install a good sump pump and PVC piping - 1 1/2" out to the exterior and away from the homw for proper drainage. This could be buried and run into a drywell at least 20 plus feet away from the home on down grade.

Hope this helps!
 
  #3  
Old 04-06-03, 06:17 AM
Don Pell
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Thanks Doug.looks like I am on the right track.Our foundation is poured do we still need to drill holes near the footing? i dont think there is any blocks on top of the footing.Also i forgot to say that there is some seapage on the walls.i have used hyd cement to stop it and has work so far.i have stop using it now.When i pour the cement should i leave a gap at the floor to let the water run down the wall into the tile.One of my pics that i got from a waterprofer showes a rigid sealer at the floor and up the wall to let water run down into the tile.Any thoughts.PS Cindy says thanks.
 
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Old 04-06-03, 07:59 AM
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Don Pell,

I'm sorry that my previous response was pertaining to block and you have a poured wall.

I would leave a space between wall and slab since you do have water coming in down the walls. You seem to have everything in order.

By the way tell Cindy, "you're very welcome!"

Good Luck!
 
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Old 04-06-03, 02:37 PM
Don Pell
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Hey man thanks for the help and need of saying sorry here What about drilling small holes at the bottom of the wall should we or knot.I have to admit we are looking forward on doing this ourself.This site is priceless.your the man Doug.Ps would it be smart to run a pipe from one side to the outher in the middle of the slab.
 
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Old 04-06-03, 04:21 PM
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Don Pell,

Personally, I would drill holes ( BELOW SLAB LEVEL) and duplicate the same process as that of block walls. This would speed the need to relieve water from the exterior perimeter faster and almost eliminate the water running down the inside of the poured walls. A GOOD, COMMERCIAL POWER HAMMER DRILL with a 3/4" bit can make this easy which you can rent. The faster the relief, the less we have to worry about high humidty and mildew/mold growth. I have seen what I described with the 1 inch space but I frown on this application.

First, we talk about insulation not touching the walls and yet we allow water to come down them into an exposed space which sometimes is exposed right down to the soil. Then we talk about moisture and humidity levels. In either event, both bother me as means to do 2 things, remove hydrostatic water pressure and the means to eliminate high humidity within the home which contributes to mildew and mold growth. While we take precautions to not get insulation wet, we increase the humidity level when water seeps through the poured walls. Dampproofing or applications of a waterproofing product does not help this over a long term and eventually will fail if not fail soon after application. This is not so much the product failure but the substrate and its saturation which retards the adhesion/penetration to provide the seal that would be required. The other issue is the amount of pressure from water on the exterior of the wall, this can be more than a waterproofing product can withstand if substrate preparation is not attained per manufacturers recommendations.

The issue of applying drain tile across the middle of the slab is an issue that depends on the length of the lower level. I would only consider this if sump basket location was not in a corner and then it would be placing a line, FRONT TO BACK. This does help in high water table areas and in the event any water would try to work it's way up through cracks in the slab. If you don't have any cracks, no need to really do this.

***I do stress that this is rarely done as the perimeter lines would be catching the rising water and take it to your sump basket***

Hope this all helps!
 
  #7  
Old 04-07-03, 05:20 AM
Don Pell
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Thanks Doug that does help big time.My plan is to start the work in June.So you my here from us again.have a great week.
 
 

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