Steel Studs Vs Pressure treated for Termite protection?
#1

I’m about to frame-in non load-bearing walls in my basement and need to decide if I should use steel or wood studs. The only reason I’m even considering steel studs is that the house had previous termite damage. Although we’ve repaired all the damage and had the house treated 2 years ago with Termidor ( http://www.termidorhome.com/home.asp ) – and there were no active termites at the time – I know that termites are still active in our neighborhood. Accordingly I’m VERY concerned about using wood studs (even with pressure treated bottom plates on the floor) because it seems like it could provide a path to the house structure should termites ever make it through my basement floor again.
However, since steel studs are a bit unfamiliar to me and my carpenter friends – should I consider a different alternative? What about using PT wood for all the studs? I’ve heard termites don’t like PT wood – but is the repellent effect permanent or does it fade over time? Since PT wood is often damp when purchased, is there any danger of it twisting/warping after being installed and causing problems with the drywall? Is there such a thing as kiln dried PT wood? Does any manufacturer offer a termite resistant product designed for use in stud walls?
If I do use steel – any hints for making the doorframes sturdy and for getting insulation that fits snuggly between the hollow steel studs (i.e. wider insulation)? Or should I just adjust the steel stud spacing so the standard width insulation fits snuggly?
All responses appreciated!
Ed
Chicago, IL
However, since steel studs are a bit unfamiliar to me and my carpenter friends – should I consider a different alternative? What about using PT wood for all the studs? I’ve heard termites don’t like PT wood – but is the repellent effect permanent or does it fade over time? Since PT wood is often damp when purchased, is there any danger of it twisting/warping after being installed and causing problems with the drywall? Is there such a thing as kiln dried PT wood? Does any manufacturer offer a termite resistant product designed for use in stud walls?
If I do use steel – any hints for making the doorframes sturdy and for getting insulation that fits snuggly between the hollow steel studs (i.e. wider insulation)? Or should I just adjust the steel stud spacing so the standard width insulation fits snuggly?
All responses appreciated!
Ed
Chicago, IL
#3
edbreyer,
As bungalow jeff suggested, I would agree. However, the bottom plate should be W/T with the steel plate attached on top.
This is for obvious reasons like attaching base molding. I have attached a link to a PDF file that helps in the steel framing concept, including insulation issues. You will need FULL 16 inch STEEL STUD insulation which is different that what is used for wood construction.
http://www.bmp-group.com/pdfs/ADVANT...OF%20STEEL.pdf
Hope this helps!
As bungalow jeff suggested, I would agree. However, the bottom plate should be W/T with the steel plate attached on top.
This is for obvious reasons like attaching base molding. I have attached a link to a PDF file that helps in the steel framing concept, including insulation issues. You will need FULL 16 inch STEEL STUD insulation which is different that what is used for wood construction.
http://www.bmp-group.com/pdfs/ADVANT...OF%20STEEL.pdf
Hope this helps!