Hey gang,

I've decided to go with metal studs because my niece can get me a good deal through her company, which will include the drywall as well. In fact, they will deliver everything down into my basement! So this is a no-brainer for me - I have to use the metal studs because I can't pass up on the savings.

Anyway, here are some questions I'd like to have answered:

1. What thickness/guage metal studs are best, or most popular to work with and why? Oh, I needs screws also - type?

2. What's the best way to attach the bottom seal plate to the floor? Glue them down or use concrete nails?

3. Is it easier to build your wall on the ground first, or is it better to attach your bottom and top plate, then add the studs?

4. How important is a vapor barrier when I have half (exposed) the basement walls already insulated by the builder? Only the top half of the walls are above ground level.

5. If I need a vapor barrier, what kind of plastic should I get, what thickness? How is it applied? Do I cover the whole backside of the metal wall I am building?

I know I have quite a few questions so if someone could recommend a good book instead that would be great. I want to finish my basement right the first time.

Thanks![B]

 

I enjoy working with steel studs.

1. Usually 25 guage (found at the local big boxes) is used in basement finishing. They are not load-bearing, but you aren't building load bearing walls.
Screws - you need two sizes, 7/16 pan head and 1-1/4 inch - both fine thread drywall screws. The 7/16 pan heads are used to attach the studs to the c-channels (tracks used as sole plates). The 1-1/4 inch screws are used to attach drywall to the studs.

Cut the studs with straight aircraft shears (tin snips).
A vise-grip c-clamp will hold the stud/track tight to drive the screws.

2. I used a ramjet (.22 caliber driver). Available at the local big box for about $25. Others have used tapcon screws. A bead of glue and a nail/screw every 2 feet is plenty.

I just put the bottom track right on the concrete. Some use a pressure treated 2x4 under the track so nailing the baseboard will be easier. Thats up to you.

3. Put the top plate up first. Find your spot at two points and snap a chalk line. Now using a stud and a 4 or 5 foot level, mark the spot on the floor. Do this in two places and snap a chalk line.
Install the top and bottom tracks and then the studs. Its easy and fast this way. To make it faster, we lay out the stud locations first. Streatch the tape once and mark with a marker.

4. As for a vapor barrier - I've read pros and cons to all three views (room side, foundation side, and none). Each proponent has "evidence" to support their view. I finally decided on room side. I'm sure others on this forum will tell you differently.

One thing you will need - plastic grommets to protect your wiring. These are very cheap.

Hope this helps.

 

Just remember that the steel studs cut the insulation value of the wall by around 40%.

 

Hey, thanks so far for all the information. I am going to print out all this wonderful advice and plan as I go along. I should have all materials within one month and this will be the perfect winter project. Knowing me, it will take all winter! lol

I am still worried a little about insulation and plastic barriers. Since my foundation wall is only insulated halfway down, I might want to add more between the studs, even though the bottom half of the foundation is well below ground level. Not sure if I really need that to be honest. I do plan to carpet the whole room btw.

 

My basement is only a concrete foundation. I used steel studs at a minimum 1/2 from the foundation. I bought 15" wide batts (kraft-faced with vb) to put between the studs. I filled the stud "cavity" with scrap insulation. Then drywalled, primed, and painted.

My heat savings that winter were great. I saved enough in just 2 winters to pay for the insulation. Friends used wood studs but their savings were the same as mine - they didn't save anymore than I did.

 

Hey
I know metal studs are real easy to work with, But remember you cant nail to them. Bob

 

Well if you cant nail to them guess you have to just take a sheet metal screw and just screw them

 

Yeah and those sheet metal screws look great holding up that clam shell molding and door jambs!

 

You don't use sheet metal screws - you use fine thread drywall screws.

For baseboards, there are small head screws designed for that work. I stained my trim and trim head screws look just as good as trim nails. If you paint, you won't see any difference at all.

Fot the door, I framed it with wood studs. A wood 2x4 fits in the tracks like a steel stud. Attach with a 1-1/4 inch screw (fine thread drywall screw). I did that because I don't like framing doors to begin with, so went for the easy-nail route.

One more thing - I know of pros that DO NAIL to the steel. They use a nail drive to drive finish nails at opposing angles into the bottom channel when attaching the baseboard. Don't take my word for it - hang out at some of the carpenter forums on other web sites.

 

Well, I'd prefer to work with wood but like I already mentioned, I can get the metal studs and drywall at almost cost from a relative of mine so I must make it work. I cannot pass up on the savings to be honest.

Once I get use to it and cuss a few times and cut my fingers, I'll hopefully be ok... lol

Thanks so far for all the solid advice.

p.s. Where are these "carpenter" forums anyway? Do you have any web site links you might pass along?

 

This one is pretty good.

http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/

 

And get the plastic grommets for the holes to run the electrical, unless you use AC cable.

 

When you go to cut the stud. Cut at your mark on each side of the stud. Then bend that piece 45o to 90o and you can cut across there in one cut. Like BOB said for a door .We turn the open stud to the door and slip in a 2x4 so we can nail the door jam in. ED

 

Awesome advice, thanks!

Keep em' coming! lol