Old 12-08-03, 02:42 PM
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Hiyas. I have a house built about 1930ish or so. It's a Brick ranch with a "finished" cement block basement. I say "finished because it has nasty, way out of date yellow and green tiles for the floor that are half peeled up and lovely paneling strips that are pulling off the walls. It is in my mind to make this basement a bit nicer as it it is huge and would be a great space for rec room, kids playroom etc.

I have a question about the water though. It does get seepage during wet weather though not usually noticible except for multiple days of rain or the like. There is a gutter built into the cement floor that drains water around the edges to the lowest corner and into a drain. Firstly, would it be feasible to have the basement waterproofed and would it be safe? i.e. would the water then just sit against the wall and eat away at the foundation for the next X amount of years. Secondly is there a decent, affordable moisture resistant type of wallboard that would work well for basements. I know there is drywall made that is moisture resistant but I'm just curious about any other products out there.

As far as the floor is concerned, the tiles that are cracking and peeling up are no problem but the rest seem to be on to stay. The amount of work needed to get them off make me wonder if t here is a filler/coating made for this type of work that would just fill in and level the existing gap's and coat the remaining tiles and then I could just do whatever I decide over that for a "new" floor.

Your thoughts and ideas are greatly appreciated!
Old 12-10-03, 05:09 AM
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You may want to read this article, the wall framing should be done just past your trench to avoid any problems.

I prefer to see 2x4 but as mentioned by others they can get 2x3's. You still need that W/T BOTTOM PLATE. The best way is to attach WOOD TREATED BOTTOM PLATE to the concrete is to use either...
Concrete nails - Sometimes this is hard and time consuming!
Tapcon Screws - Relatively easy but again time consuming!
Hilti Gun with ramset nails - Rent the gun, buy nails and charges - Very fast and holds great! - No adhesive is needed.
Doing the wall framing 16" O.C. provides a solid base for your 1/2" drywall. If using traditional framing method, frame your new wall 1" from the vertical block/masonry surface if using R-13. The reason to keep the wood out from the walls is the moisture that could damage them. If using insulation like R-19 and only 2x4 studs, the insulation would touch the walls. I have stated before that if a homeowner did put thicker insulation in, and the wall was only 1" from the masonry surface, I have recommended hanging a vapor barrier between the back of the wall and masonry surface. This doesn't allow for the insulation to touch the wall and air movement is not restricted but at least you won't create damage to the insulation or wood.
Vapor barrier should be placed directly under the drywall. The warm inside air containing water vapor can get past the wall finish and insulation and condense inside the colder wall cavity. If enough of this happens, and the water cannot escape, wood rot, mold, and other moisture-related problems are likely to occur. For this reason, building codes often require installing a vapor diffusion retarder on the warmest side of the wall cavity. This is what is required in Minnesota;

"A 4 mill poly vapor barrier must be placed against all concrete or block exterior foundation walls prior to applying furring strips for full height of the wall. Another 4 mill poly vapor barrier must be placed over furring strips and insulation prior to covering with finish materials. (State Energy Code Requirement)" - MINNESOTA CODE


If you do want to increase the R value, move the wall out further or use the R-13 and then apply a rigid insulation over the studs (warm side) then drywall (not paneling) *Code advises a 15 minute fire rated material over any rigid insulation - 1/2" Drywall*..

Kraft Faced insulation is fine to use in the above scenario. No need for the poly and you can do everything easily. You may find this easier and I would do this versus unfaced and vapor barrier because I don't like to play with it any more than I have to.

I will your post to Tile so you can get some good advice on this.

Hope this helps!
Old 12-20-03, 07:50 AM
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Dont know if I got it right here....

But if all the waals and floors are made of cement than :

1- Yes, you can waterproof it from the inside, forever.

2- If water are coming from below the tiles (I am not sure I got it right...) than you shall have to remove the tiles and waterproof it first. If not- you can apply epoxy grout between the tiles and it will do the trick.

To waterproof the walls (and/or floor) you can use hidraulic Cements. You shall have to do plastering with special aditives.

I am using Sika products in my country, but you can get it in your country too. Use "sika 1 concrete" on the cement, and on top of it - all over the walls, use Sika top 107 + mesh. You shall have a dry basement.

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