Hole in basement wall

I am hoping someone can help me. We purchased a 50 year old house this summer. The house is the first level lot on the bottom of a hill and we get all the water from above. The previous owner installed the oil tank outside the house he did not seem to do anything to patch the hole from the pipes so every time it rains we get totally flooded out.

A friend told us we have to fix the hole from the outside but it is winter in New Hampshire and I am hoping we can find at least a temporary solution. Any suggestion would be helpful.

 

I do not recommend patching it with a cement style patch, as it will not bond to the exising concrete, plus also leaving a cold joint (where the new patch meets the old concrete), which will allow water to continue coming in. http://www.sanitred.com/ConcreteRepair.htm
This link will show you how to repair the hole from the inside.

Stacy

 

You really didn't supply enough information.

For the first remedy, let's assume the previous installation was watertight, and the removal of the tank allows water to migrate through the remaining pipe. In this case, attempt to plug or cap the pipe that protrudes into the basement.

If the pipe was cut flush, purchase a 'test plug' that fits the pipe.
If the pipe protrudes with threads, purchase a 'galvanized cap' to fit.
If the pipe protrudes but has no threads, purchase a rubber 'DWV cap' to fit.

You would not risk further remedy if you wanted to fill the pipe with Great Stuff caulking foam and see if that solved the problem. You would want to put as much as possible as deep as possilble into the pipe, perhaps using a short section of tubing as an extension. When you have squirted as much as possible, place a plastic bag over the pipe and secure in place with rubber bands.



For the second remedy, let's assume that all piping was removed, and you have a hole above grade, allowing access from both sides.

Purchase a length of threaded rod with 'fender washers' and nuts. Cut yourself two squares of plywood, adequate to cover the hole, drill a hole (for the threaded rod) in the center of both squares. Locate some waterproof compressible material to serve as a gasket. Cut two gaskets and cut a hole (for the threaded rod) in the middles of the gaskets. Place one gasket and one plywood square on each side, and bolt them up tight, using the threaded rod.



For the third possible remedy, let's assume that all piping was removed, and the only access is from the basement.


Create one gasket/plywood square as mentioned in the second remedy, and use a very large "moly bolt" or "toggle bolt" to hold it over the hole. NOTE: this is the least desirable method, especially if the wall is concrete block. The block cavities would fill with water.

If the toggle bolt isn't long enough, you could purchase a 'coupling nut' to attach a short section of threaded rod.

 

The tank is still in use, for now anyways, so the pipes are still there. We did already put some "Great Stuff" into the hole, which works for light rain showers but if we get any kind of a downpour forget it!

We realize we will have to address the drainage issue in the spring as the hole is not the only place we are getting water, but for now we would be happy if we could just stop the enormous amount of water coming through that hole.

Stacy, have you actually tried the Sani-Tred products on the site you sent the link to? If I knew it worked well I have several smaller areas I would like to try it on.

 

Hi.

Forget the simple tricks and "ideas".
Use professional solutions only.

I am using only Sika products in my waterproof business. If you can find it in your area- use it.

What you need is a non-shrinking cement (such as "Sika Grout 214") to fill the hole with. It will stand ANY pressure (It is 5 times stronger than regular cement and EXPANDS while it dries, so it will HOLD for life and you shall not have a week spot around the patch.

If you can not find it- get an Epoxy paste from anywhere. Epoxy has a non-shriking quality too, so it will do the trick.

Other tricks (like foam, poliorithan, etc) are working fine, but will not work on direct high water pressure.

Another product is a Fast drying Cements which exist from Sika or from Thoro or anyone else. You can apply it on wet areas and it dries hard in 5 minutes and expands too while it dries.

Have fun. Its a simple issue, realy.

 

Time, Place, and Circumstances

The Time is Winter.
The Place is New Hampshire.
The Circumstances involve novices.


Epoxies require a warm environment to properly react and combine. I don't think New Hampshire offers that at the moment.

 

So is there anything I can do to ride out the winter short of building an ark that will at least slow the leak until summer?

 

Well, just use the following link, below.

Phone and ask for a Sika supplier near your area.
Buy a fast drying cement (2 small bags will cost you about 5 Dollars only) - and stick it in there.

http://www.sikacorp.com/home/sika-about-contacts-2.htm

 

I do use these products all of the time. I have waterproofed roofs, basements, and pools with these products. Also have sealed concrete pad entry ways to schools, and fixed upheveled concrete slabs. This would be ideal for your needs, as it can be done from the inside. Epoxies will crack, and as far as what I spoke about, temperature is not a factor. Good Luck!

Stacy