Anyone use Masonite "Safe & Sound" doors?

Anyone use these doors? Is there another solid core door that is good at sound proofing that is better for the price? I'm putting a home theater in my basement and want a door that can help with sound isolation.

I'm curious though, is there anyone that sells a complete door (with frame & threshold) as a package that your aware of? The masonite door looks like it doesn't include any of the hardware/frame and stuff.

 

No, but we (the company) supply and use Mohawk (related to Masonite) on and to various Government and Military projects Internationally. You're correct. Both manufactures require that you fill out a machining sheet (you specify the hardware set and jamb in advance & provide templants) . Neither one supplies hardware, frames, & thresholds, at least not on a single door basis. What STC (45?), and skin type do you require? Must it be UL rated(?), and what country or state do live in? Can you absorb freight costs? I might be able to provide a source. (Be back in a few days. I need to recoup from an overseas trip).

If you'd rather not say & live in the USA: (1) Thomas Register (2) NSDJA - National Sash & Door Jobbers Association (3) WDMA Window & Door Manufacturers Association (4) Google dancing:: door stc manufacturer (4) Telephone book - state & local job shops or suppliers. (5) Lastly ask at the local Home Owners Hell (junk, from Brazil and China, if you want cheep. Some US goods also). Really, it's not a lack of suppliers or mines better than yours game. It's quality, location, and what you can afford.

BTW, where I live there are three local job shops that can supply complete STC doors & frames, but only one can supply UL rated. One last note:an STC rated door isn't of much value without an STC rated frame or some form of sound deadening material in a hollow core jamb (easy to obtain).

 

Thanks for the info. I live in Lancaster PA area (west of philly). I'm looking for a solid core door, hopefully like you said with frame & threshold if possible. I don't care if it is used/pulled from a hospital or office as long as it works, looks good and can be painted over

I'm decent with carpentry, but since i'm looking for a HIGH STC rated door (i don't believe it has to be UL rated for home use ???) i want to make sure like you said the framing and threshold won't be the leaks that ruin the purpose of a good door!

Thanks

 

You want high STC, but I heard "save a buck if I can" also.
You won't achieve both, so make your choices:

1.STC 45 to 49 is about the highest you'll be able to obtain in a wood door. Past that you'll pay dearly. Ready made: Overly door. This is a high end engineered product that comes complete with frame and gasket. The drawback is the price. They are not affordable by most peoples standards.

2. With metal doors and frames you can achieve higher STC ratings. Drawbacks: cost, and you won't be involved with manufacturing other than specifying exactly what you want. Ready made: Specialty Doors, Inc.
Both have been specified and used on past projects.

3. Real World: you can achieve somewhere around STC 45 with a solid core wood door.
I can't help with a used door, but I can suggest the parts.

a. Door blank - find a trustworthy door shop with knowledgeable personal. Most major door manufactures make STC rated doors, but they don't advertise the fact. Algoma, Mohawk, and Masonite, among others, can provide the blank at an assumed STC 45 rating. The actual STC value is a sum of the parts. Basically: 5 ply, STC 45, no bevel, paint grade. Specify exterior glue if you have a choice.

b. Either a flat metal jamb (no stop) or solid birch single rabbit. The former is mainly a commercial jamb. The door and wood jamb you can machine yourself, if you're able to. Otherwise gather the remainder of the parts and let the shop assemble them.

c. Gaskets & Automatic Door bottom - high end (Zero International). Download their catalog. Find the gaskets, threshold, and automatic door bottom for both types of frames. Lower end, but acceptable: Pemko S88 gaskets, AMS (All Metal Stamping Inc.) 300 series bottom seal, Pemko #2005 threshold.

d. Hinges
3 each Ball Bearing 4-1/2" x 4-1/2" .180 thick - commercial grade. Crossover: Stanley FBB179, McKinney TA2714, Lawerence Brothers RC4181, Hagar RC1279 Suggested Finish US32D "dull stainless steel". They won't rust or fail.
The cam hinges shown in Zero Internationals catalog are an option, but not necessary. You don't need a continuous hinge either. Assumes non UL rated (I'm not a local code jockey).

e. Lever or Knob style Passage lockset - your choice. Choose before machining, mainly because of the strike option: Full Lip, T-Strike, or Closed "no lip" Strike.

Discuss the above options with the door shop personal. They may make other suggestions, such as side seals, or provide other options. A word of caution: after you have provided the parts specification; the opening size (plumb & level); flooring option, and have discus your options, if they ask you questions such as "how much undercut"? or "what hinge backset"? or what clearance?, find another shop. If they can't fill out the machining sheet, or work out the variables, you don't need them.

How much you'll save depends on your choices and if you do some or all of the work (past obtaining the blank).

 

wholy shmolly your a wealth of information! thanks for the heads up!!!!

I did find some "pre-made" doors, but they ran 3,500 to 5 grand at cheapest, so i'll run with what you gave me and see what i can come up with!

Thanks again!