Framing Clarification


  #1  
Old 01-13-04, 12:23 PM
bcard74
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Framing Clarification

Hi all, I have been reading like a madman on Doug's posts about framing.

However I am still curious about my situation and how I should go about it after going through the archives.

I live in the Toronto Ontario area in a 3 year old house with a bone-dry basement. It is about 80% underground with block wall and currently has insulation covered in plastic down about halfway to the floor done by the builder.

Can I leave this on and build the wall out an inch from there and insulate and put on a vapour barrier? Or should all of this come off and go from scratch an inch out from the wall?

Not familiar with why the insulation is halfway down the wall and how I should go about doing a vapour barrier when it comes framing time.

Thanks.
 
  #2  
Old 01-13-04, 06:41 PM
Doug Aleshire's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: United States
Posts: 4,455
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
bcard74,

Glad you have been reading my posts but simple answer is yes, you can leave what is there. The issue of halfway down is probably code approved there as it helps somewhat. I would do the new wall install bringing the wall 1" from the wall but don't squash the existing insulation there.

You have options, new wall and fully insulate it as I have posted in other replies or not. Do install a vapor barrier and don't if you are going to use kraft faced insulation.

Don't forget the W/T plates. Hope you pulled a permit, if required.

Good Luck!
 
  #3  
Old 01-17-04, 08:45 AM
greatone7
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Hi. I too live in a new house in the GTA. Like yours my basement came with insulation covered in vapour barrier. The insulation goes about halfway down the wall. Typically in a basement, insulation only needs to be installed a few feet below the ground because after that, it's already insulated by the ground itself.

What I have done in finishing my basement, is left the insulation as is....built a 2x4 wall a little out from it, so it's not squishing the insulation and that was that....no more insulation added. Have no problems, and the basement stays a comfortable temp.
 
  #4  
Old 01-17-04, 09:10 AM
Lew Falconer
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Good morning. If you want to leave the builder's insulation that will be fine. If you intend to add insulation between the studs; either remove the vapour barrier or slash it open and add poly barrier on the room side of the new insulation. Do not have two layers of vapour barrier within the wall.
The only other thing I would say is that pressure treated lumber is not allow inside the house as per code here in Ontario. I would suggest that you put a 6 mil. plastic sheeting strip between the base plate and the concrete.
Have a good day and enjoy your project.
 
  #5  
Old 01-17-04, 09:25 AM
Doug Aleshire's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: United States
Posts: 4,455
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Lew,

That is the problem when you don't know where someone lives. I am not sure where Bcard74 lives but in the US it is a requirement for W/T plate whenever in contact with concrete/masonry as per our Code.

May I ask what is the reason, if you know, why they don't allow W/T within home in Canada or is this Ontario only? Is this about the CCA ratings and health fears?

If he installs the walls as I mentione before, he will be ok.

Thanks for the feedback
 
  #6  
Old 01-17-04, 10:16 AM
Lew Falconer
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Hi Doug. How are you today. I believe the non-use of treated lumber indoors is due to the outgasing of the chemicals used. I hear rumours that it is eventually going to be banned for interior use in the USA as well.
What I usually end up doing when I do a basement room is taking a close look at how the builder insulation was installed. In a lot of cases here in Ontario, there is really only about 1.5 inches of actual insulation and not even a wood frame holding it in place. Quite often, even if three inches is used, they nail a metal horizontal strap at the bottom to hold the plastic sheet and the insluation is held in place by the vapour barrier only which is stapled to the first floor baseplate. In a case like that, I rip it all down, build the walls and re-use the old insulation and usually have to add more.
The one other thing I can think of offhand that is different here in Ontario than in the States is that the electrical outlets in the basement must be mounted a minimum of 18" above the finished floor.
Have a good day Doug and keep up the good work on this forum.
Your expertise is certainly welcome by all who enter.
Lew.
 
  #7  
Old 01-17-04, 10:34 AM
Doug Aleshire's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: United States
Posts: 4,455
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Lew,

Thanks for the insight and I am pleased that you and others like using the Forums to give and get information. We all try to help each other.

From what I am aware of, and this was from Fine Homebuilding magazine

"Pressure-Treated Wood:
The Next Generation

The EPA is banning CCA lumber. The replacements are safer, but they may change how you build a deck.

by Daniel S. Morrison

Nearly 40 million lb. of arsenic is used in this country every year, and most of it goes into the pressure-treated wood that we use to build decks and playgrounds. But that all changes Jan. 1, 2004. The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) is banning chromated copper arsenate (CCA) as a preservative for wood intended for residential use (except for the lumber that is used in permanent wood foundations). CCA-treated lumber will still be available for industrial and agricultural use, however.

By the way, there's no need to panic about existing CCA-treated structures. The EPA says that they're fine. But if you're nervous about the chances of leaching chromium and arsenic, you can make your deck or swing set safer by coating it with an oil-based penetrating stain every couple of years.

Taking CCA's place as a preservative are two waterborne compounds: alkaline copper quat (ACQ types B and D) and copper azole (CBA-A, CA-B). Sold under the trade names Preserve, NatureWood, and Natural Select, they have been used around the world for up to 15 years. These EPA-approved low-toxicity pesticides resist bugs, mold, and rot as effectively as CCA. "

Things are changing and for the better. I believe that Canada's standards is in large part the format that the US will follow in this area.

The issue here is that we must still use W/T lumber but it will be of the new type. I know that there are many that still have fears and with EPA's guideline, these fears will be dismissed in time.

Thanks for the feedback on this issue and you have a good one too!
 
  #8  
Old 01-17-04, 05:32 PM
Ed Imeduc's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Mountain Williams Missouri
Posts: 17,505
Upvotes: 0
Received 1 Upvote on 1 Post
Lightbulb wood

I Live and learn all the time. Down here they have put a band on all wood for play grounds that has any cca in it . That was last july 03. W/T and the old G/W are still ok for in the homesIf the wood touches cement it has to be treated . But to get away from that they pour the outside wall now with steel studs in them on some jobs ED
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: