Framing with green lumber
#1
02-10-04, 08:29 AM
Framing with green lumber
I am framing my basement with green 2x4x10's (doug fir). The lumber yards in central NJ apparently do not stock dry 2x4's in the 10 foot lengths. Are there any issues or potential problems associated with framing using green lumber? Any tips for accounting for potential shrinkage?
#2
02-10-04, 10:08 AM
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tbg,
First thing is to use only W/T for the plates alone. Use regular dimensional for everything not touching concrete/masonry. I would consider returning the 10's and find another yard.
This will save you allot of money, still meets code and if an W/T is wet, I wouldn't worry about it if it is plates only. If you do use all these, install offset blocking mid point to avoid any unusual warping/twisting that might occur.
Hope this Helps!
First thing is to use only W/T for the plates alone. Use regular dimensional for everything not touching concrete/masonry. I would consider returning the 10's and find another yard.
This will save you allot of money, still meets code and if an W/T is wet, I wouldn't worry about it if it is plates only. If you do use all these, install offset blocking mid point to avoid any unusual warping/twisting that might occur.
Hope this Helps!
#3
02-10-04, 10:31 AM
Thanks, Doug. But I 'm not sure I understand. If by W/T you mean pressure treated, well that is what I am using for the bottom plates. For all else, I am using the green doug fir 2x4x10's. Also, I'm not sure I understand where the cost savings is that you refer to.
#4
02-10-04, 10:34 AM
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tbg,
W/T (pressure treated or green) is more expensive than standard kiln dried lumber. Are we talking on the same page?
W/T (pressure treated or green) is more expensive than standard kiln dried lumber. Are we talking on the same page?
#5
02-10-04, 10:40 AM
No, I think we're talking apples and oranges. Maybe I've got my terminology confused. For my studs, I am using standard 2x4x10's, NOT pressure treated. It was just my understanding that for standard non-pressure treated wood, there are two distinctions: dry and green, with the green just having a higher mositure content. I know at Home Depot, they have 2x4x8's in both dry and green, with the dry ones being more white in color and the green ones being a bit orange in color. When it came to getting 2x4x10's, my only options were the green variety, again not pressured treated.
#6
02-10-04, 10:44 AM
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Got it, thanks!
I would go with my suggestion to use blocking mid point to avoid the warping and twisting.
Thanks for clearing that up for me.
Good Luck!
I would go with my suggestion to use blocking mid point to avoid the warping and twisting.
Thanks for clearing that up for me.
Good Luck!
#7
02-10-04, 10:54 AM
Thanks again, Doug. I'll go with your suggestion on the blocking. Should add some more stability as well. By the way, I am already using blocking at the top and bottom as well to prevent the twisiting. Plus, I find I am able to frame quicker, since I can't make the wall on the floor and tilt up into place. So once I get my first stud nice and straight, I nail in a 14.5 inch spacer on the top and bottom, then throw in the next stud. I don't have to test the second stud with a level, so it moves quicker. Probably not standard practice, but this is my first time framing and it seems to work for me. Thanks again for all your help.
