Fixing a basement wall
#1
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Fixing a basement wall
I recently had a sump pump and drain system installed in my basement to fix a water problem. When installing the system, the waterproofing company had to cut about 10 inces off the bottom of one of my framed walls to get to the cinder blocks.
The wall was framed out and covered with paneling. They cut thru the studs and paneling and removed the bottom plate. Now my wall is just attached at the top. What is the best way for me to fix this without ripping the entire wall down? Here's a few pictures.. one during the digging and one now...
http://www.keystoneacquisitions.com/front_wall
http://www.keystoneacquisitions.com/front_wall_done
The wall was framed out and covered with paneling. They cut thru the studs and paneling and removed the bottom plate. Now my wall is just attached at the top. What is the best way for me to fix this without ripping the entire wall down? Here's a few pictures.. one during the digging and one now...
http://www.keystoneacquisitions.com/front_wall
http://www.keystoneacquisitions.com/front_wall_done
#2
CCM21,
Well here is an idea, you need to remove the paneling to install a "sister 2x4" this doesn't have to be a full pc but it has to be one that will provide the wall strength vertically - maybe a 2 or 3 ft pc after laying down a new w/t plate. There is no easy fix and a true attachment to the existing studs is necessary in order to have straight walls.
The method I guess will be applicable to what the final finished wall is to be. Paneling or drywall, etc.
Hope this helps!
Well here is an idea, you need to remove the paneling to install a "sister 2x4" this doesn't have to be a full pc but it has to be one that will provide the wall strength vertically - maybe a 2 or 3 ft pc after laying down a new w/t plate. There is no easy fix and a true attachment to the existing studs is necessary in order to have straight walls.
The method I guess will be applicable to what the final finished wall is to be. Paneling or drywall, etc.
Hope this helps!
#3
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Originally posted by Doug Aleshire
CCM21,
Well here is an idea, you need to remove the paneling to install a "sister 2x4" this doesn't have to be a full pc but it has to be one that will provide the wall strength vertically - maybe a 2 or 3 ft pc after laying down a new w/t plate. There is no easy fix and a true attachment to the existing studs is necessary in order to have straight walls.
The method I guess will be applicable to what the final finished wall is to be. Paneling or drywall, etc.
Hope this helps!
CCM21,
Well here is an idea, you need to remove the paneling to install a "sister 2x4" this doesn't have to be a full pc but it has to be one that will provide the wall strength vertically - maybe a 2 or 3 ft pc after laying down a new w/t plate. There is no easy fix and a true attachment to the existing studs is necessary in order to have straight walls.
The method I guess will be applicable to what the final finished wall is to be. Paneling or drywall, etc.
Hope this helps!
So what you're saying is that I need to over lap the studs by a few feet? And the finished product will be a staggered stud, so to speak?
And should I use screws or nails to attach the studs to each other? (I'm not much of a carpenter, if you couldn't guess) And overall, does this seem like a pretty easy job for a novice.
#4
Yep,
Remove the paneling to at least have access to install the sister 2x4. Screws would be easy or if you can use a framing nailer, this would be fast. I understand that even trying to flip up the paneling without total removal may be difficult but an extra pair of hands may come in handy. The idea is to make sure that the bottom plate is straight with the existing wall and as such, total removal of the paneling will make it easier and ensures straight walls.
Access which is better but make sure things are straight. I am assuming that going 1 ft minimum past the cut 2x4 would be fine here but 2 feet past would be better. Basically, figure 1 - 8' board to take care of 3 cut studs.
Hope this helps!
Remove the paneling to at least have access to install the sister 2x4. Screws would be easy or if you can use a framing nailer, this would be fast. I understand that even trying to flip up the paneling without total removal may be difficult but an extra pair of hands may come in handy. The idea is to make sure that the bottom plate is straight with the existing wall and as such, total removal of the paneling will make it easier and ensures straight walls.
Access which is better but make sure things are straight. I am assuming that going 1 ft minimum past the cut 2x4 would be fine here but 2 feet past would be better. Basically, figure 1 - 8' board to take care of 3 cut studs.
Hope this helps!
#5
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Yep, that all makes sense! Thanks for the advice. I guess I have my next project all lined up! Is there a big problem with leavng the wall hanging the way it is for a few days? I have to wait for the new concrete to set.
#6
CCM21,
Shouldn't be - as long as we don't have children or big animals to content with.
Good Luck - let us know how you came out! Take some picture while doing it ok and maybe we can use them for others, if that's ok?
Shouldn't be - as long as we don't have children or big animals to content with.
Good Luck - let us know how you came out! Take some picture while doing it ok and maybe we can use them for others, if that's ok?
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Thanks again... I'll take some pictures... (unless I totally screw it up, of course)
One last question.... what would be the best way to line up the bottom plate with the existing studs... ( I really am a novice)
One last question.... what would be the best way to line up the bottom plate with the existing studs... ( I really am a novice)
#8
CCM21,
You need a 4 ft level and place this next to the existing stud - placing the level on the small 1 1/2" facing, hold it and make sure the long existing 2x4 stud and the plate are lined up.
With the w/t plate on the floor, make it plumb and attach the plate to floor using a Hilti - ramset. This is a rented tool - 22 cal with nails.
Then cut the sisters and then install per the method you prefer - screws or nails. Just make sure things are plumb.
Hope this works!
You need a 4 ft level and place this next to the existing stud - placing the level on the small 1 1/2" facing, hold it and make sure the long existing 2x4 stud and the plate are lined up.
With the w/t plate on the floor, make it plumb and attach the plate to floor using a Hilti - ramset. This is a rented tool - 22 cal with nails.
Then cut the sisters and then install per the method you prefer - screws or nails. Just make sure things are plumb.
Hope this works!