Framing around a basement window
#1
Framing around a basement window
Anyone have any hints or know of any Web sites that show detail of framing around basement windows. I'm using steel studs.
I've found some info about working with steel studs here;
http://www.bmp-group.com/
Thanks
I've found some info about working with steel studs here;
http://www.bmp-group.com/
Thanks
#3
Thanks, my basement windows are typical small ones, high up the wall. I'm guessing 18"x6". House is 3 years old.
I'm using steel studs, with about an inch gap from the wall.
How do I bridge the gap between the wall frame and the window?
Do I build a frame abound the window,(prehaps using wood) and then simply drywall across the gap?
In my Dad's house, the bottom sill is slanted down as opposed to flat, giving in a bit more light and making the windows appear larger. Are there any other techniques I could use around the window to ehance the appearence?
TIA
I'm using steel studs, with about an inch gap from the wall.
How do I bridge the gap between the wall frame and the window?
Do I build a frame abound the window,(prehaps using wood) and then simply drywall across the gap?
In my Dad's house, the bottom sill is slanted down as opposed to flat, giving in a bit more light and making the windows appear larger. Are there any other techniques I could use around the window to ehance the appearence?
TIA
#4
With only a 1" gap between the studs and the wall, you will be o.k. to hang over the gap with no problems, but if you want something to fill the gap. Shoot a piece of track to wall, bend one lip out and screw it to the stud at the window. Gives you a little more to screw to and works as a clip to reduce movement. By the way, you do know that you should clip off every other stud with spacing at every 4'. Good Luck, need any more help, give me a yell.
#6
You make a clip out of scrap material. Cut one end off of a stud so that it is L shaped rather than C. Then you shoot it to the wall with a shotgun, (powder actuated tool). With the short side to the wall and the longer side against the stud. Every other stud. I hope this turns out alright. Imagine the I is you stud and the L is the clip.
I IL I IL I IL
And every 4'. So you start at 4' then go to 8'. Heigth not length. Just don't cover the key holes, if you plan on putting electric in this wall.
I IL I IL I IL
And every 4'. So you start at 4' then go to 8'. Heigth not length. Just don't cover the key holes, if you plan on putting electric in this wall.
#7
Ok, now I get it. when you mentioned 4' spacing I thought you meant between studs!!! hee hee.
So you actually anchor the wall to the foundation. What is the benefit? Simply to make the wall more solid/rigid?
Can't say I ever seen it done before. I do have a 24' run, so I presume it's more of an issue there.
So you actually anchor the wall to the foundation. What is the benefit? Simply to make the wall more solid/rigid?
Can't say I ever seen it done before. I do have a 24' run, so I presume it's more of an issue there.
#8
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Mountain Williams Missouri
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We dont ever anchor a stud to the basement wall. That will put a hole in the V/B on it. Also around the window If you want turn the open side of the studs to face each other and slip a 2x4 in them so you can trim or box around the window and have wood all around to nail to.
ED

#9
For firring out any wall, commercial or residential this is code. You could use Ed's advise though around the window, by using 2X4, just keep the metal stud back 3 1/2" but the stud needs to be turned hard soe to the window, then screw thriough the metal into the wood.
#10
heres an idea
sometimes my windows sell my next basement job. what i do with the finishing of it is the following. my bottom sill is pitched on a 22.5 angle. after i rock i take a piece of base moulding and rip it down to 2 inches keeping the fluted end on the 2. i use these for my "jambs". the top is mitered normally. the the 2 vert. piece are mitered 90 degrees and the bottom miter is compound mitered to accept the bottom "jamb". all of these are with the finished edge of the "jamb" facing toward the window. next i just picture frame it with the same casement that is around the doors leaving 1/8 inch reveal [hence my so called jambs]. i do the same thing with my tile in the baths using bull-nose although no "jambs" are needed. email if ya need a pic of some different looks i have done with them.
#12