I have a small basement (house is 24 x36) and want to finish half of my walk-out basement. The back wall is half foundation and half frame. The other three walls are cement foundation.

Right now I can't afford to finish it. But I do have my computer down here in the summer because it is cooler.

My question is -- would painting the cement walls be an option that would work? I am thinking that would cut down the dust and provide a thin layer of insulation while not requiring a permit or anything (which i assume is expensive). pros and cons of doing that?

Also, would it be a violation to use 4x8 paneling to creat a ceiling (the insulation above the walls either has no vapor barrier or it is turned toward the outside of the house and I'd like to cut down on the fibers being able to become airborne. Would using cardboard create a fire hazard? how about plastic?

Any cheap barebones techniques or advice would be appreciated. I know trying to do things on the cheap usually doesn't pay off, but for now I need any tips to hold me over before I fund a real finish (I recently underwent a layoff).

One other question. I heard from a neighbor that the person I bought the house from let the foundation sit for a while before he finally had the house built. The house is 8 years old. The metal support I-Beam has two support poles. The I-Beam itself has a rust-line where the top and bottom of the "I" join with the larger (vertical) portion of the "I". Is that a problem and should I paint it?

Thanks for your time.

 

Robj,

1. You basically have no budget and having a computer downstairs where there appears to be a higher humidty level will not be good for your computer. Move it upstairs.

2. Building permits are not that expensive and unless you have called, you really don't know the cost so don't let others steer you wrong on approx. costs without getting that info first hand.

3. The rules for basement remodeling are explicit and carboard or paneling less than 3/8" thick is illegal and a fire hazard . Put up some vapor barrier on the ceiling if the fibers are airborne but inside, they should be fine as is.

4. Rust on I beam is common place but higher humidity will just create more.

Without money, recently laid off, why try and do anything here? I would concentrate on getting another job, place the computer upstairs, lower the humidity level in the basement and leave it alone. You can't do anything without materials which takes money and shouldn't do anything illegal which endangers you and yours. Pulling a permit is a excellent way of protecting your investment should a problem occur and if you don't, you won't reap any benefits of insurance due to such loss. If you try and do anything here, and have to sell your home, a potential buyer may request a private home inspector and then they will find problems which could lower your price or create problems with the City Officials for Code violations, this does happen!

Hope this helps!

 

Thank you for the response. There seems to be no more humidity in my basement than there is upstairs. The outlet down here is a GFI, but the geography of the yard leaves no chance of flooding. the walk out basement walks out to a flat area which then slopes downhill. The back wall of the basement has two windows and it gets full sun.

Did you mean I could just put up a vapor barrier at the bottom of the joists?
Could I use plastic?

I'll look into permit costs. Would 3/8" thick paneling be code legal to use as a ceiling? I live in Kentucky near Cincinnati. Are codes by state or county and is there anywhere to access them online?

Would painting the inside walls of the foundation be acceptible in terms of code? Do you advise against it even if it is allowed? (I am thinking that wouldn't count as finishing).

 

Robj,

Your questions for the most part should be answered by your local Building Officials. Here is an example of what is required for basements,

http://www.whitebearlake.org/Buildin...ent%20Info.htm

Here is a good example of insulation and vapor barrier application.

http://www.energy.iastate.edu/effici...n/basement.htm

Normally 3/8" paneling would be legal but overall, the cost is expensive, I thought you said you want to do this economically? Drywall would be cheaper.

Applying Drylock as a waterproofing product to the walls wold be fine but again this costs.

Check with your local authorities first before proceding.

Hope this helps!

 

Thank you again for the reply. Three more questions:

As I said, the back (walk-out) wall of the basement is half foundation (goes up to a heigth of 42" form the floor, and half framing with insulation which is about 50" from the cement up to the bottom of the joists. (there are two 36" x 36" windows and a door on the back wall) . The previous owner has particle board on the framing around the door and a couple of cabinets hung on it. Could I just nail on 3/16" (4x8) pieces of "paneling" over the particle board?

Is the paper back on the insulation considered a vapor barrier?

Would I need a permit each time I wanted to undertake a piece of finishing the basement, or would the permit last until I was able to afford to finish the whole job?

 

Robj,

As I mentioned before you need to call your City for their requirements. 3/16" paneling is not Code approved and removal of the particle board is a must.

Paper faced insulation with paper facing the warm side is considered a vapor barrier. Applying poly is considered a better choice but what you have is ok.

Building permit is given which usually incorporates the entire project, usually permits are good for a minimum of 6 months to a maximum of 1 year. Again check with your City.

Hope this helps!