I have a walk out basement. Have already drywalled the wall along the window side. The rest of the walls are concrete and I'm not sure what is the best way to drywall them. Can I still use drywall screws or do I need special concrete screws? Is it OK to drywall right onto concrete or is there a better way to finish off concrete walls?

thanx for your input

 

I have a similar situation...1 unfinished room in basement with concrete walls. I'd like to finish this room, but want to know the best way to drywall over the concrete.

Thanks,
Mike

 

I don't think anyplace allows drywall to be attached right to block so you are either going to have to frame a wood or metal stud wall inside of the block wall or install furring strips to the face of the block then nail the drywall to the furring strips.

The cheapest option is going to be the furring strips (make sure they are pressure treated since going against block. However most block walls aren't plumb or square so you are going to have to "adjust you furring strips to get a straight wall.

Many on here will also add that you should place a vapor barrier over the furring strips before you drywall.

 

i just want to make sure I'm fully following. What I'm getting is that the best procedure would be:

1) Vapor Barrier
2) Wood Stud Wall
3) Drywall

Any other tips/suggestions for the room (floor?/ceiling?).

 

Some people think that a vapor barrier against the block wall and one against the inside face of the drywall is the way to go(two vapor barriers) . Others including myself believe that this is really a vapor trap cause once moisture gets in there it will never dry.

I am sorry but I don't know what your talking about with
"Any other tips/suggestions for the room (floor?/ceiling?)."

What are your questions?

 

Thanks again for your tips...

What I meant by "Any other tips/suggestions for the room (floor?/ceiling?)" is that the entire room is unfinished (concrete all around). Since you knew a lot about the walls, I was wondering if you might also have some insight as to the best ways to carpet the floor and finish the ceiling in a concrete-exposed room.

 

My tip is not to do anything at all until you have a complete plan. Spend about three months on the plan. Make sure it includes the framing plan, the electrical plan, the plumbing plan, the heating and cooling plan, the flooring plan, the lighting plan, smoke detectors, furnace ventilation, insulation, windows, drywall, etc. In my opinion, you should have a good idea about all of these before you drive the first nail.

The subject of vapor barriers always seems to start an argument. There are differences of opinion, even among experts. I suggest you inquire around locally to see what is commonly done in your area. Differences in climate, temperature, humidity, water tables, rain levels, soil type, type of foundation, etc. affect local practice.

 

I for one here have always had them hang a poly V/B on the cement walls in the basement. Put up a 2x4 stud wall 1" way for the cement . A R 13. in the studs if paper on it paper side to the room . 4 mil poly over this then the drywall or panel. You never want to put furring strips on the wall and nail them . So you can change things around later on and you will. Lights, new wire , move a phone water pipes,ete.
Put up a drop ceiling so you can get into it anytime you need to. Most of the time its best to go with a vinyl type floor down there as it is a play room like. Put a 2'X2' poly down on the floor tape it for a week .If any moisture. I dont think Id go for rugs.

My .02 cent
ED

 

Check your local building codes, and you'll have your answer. Just give them a call. It varies by area.

In my research for flooring, I found that most companies won't warrant their vinyl-type tiles if being installed on a floor that is 'underground'.

You have to do the moisture test first of all. Then think about flooring. I use my basement for an office, laundry room, bathroom and drapery workroom (soon to be home theater).

We glued carpet down in the office (water resistant carpet is widely available for this purpose) because we needed something warm, sound deadening and no padding, so the office chairs would roll.

The home theater room got pad and carpet, and the laundry room/bathroom is still up in the air. It's either going to get painted with concrete floor paint in some fancy design, or I'm putting down floor tiles regardless of the warranty.

We bought a nail gun (uses caps, and literally 'shoots' concrete nails) to install our furring strips. We put foamcore barrier in between the strips and installed cabinets and drywall over that.

We used a dropped ceiling with 2x2 tiles and painted all the walls and the ceiling (tiles and supports) with sky blue, and sponged white clouds faintly over the top. It helped get rid of the underground cave feeling.

Good luck with your project. It's always a challenge!