PT lumber for sole plate in basement partition walls?
#1
07-24-04, 09:08 AM
PT lumber for sole plate in basement partition walls?
Hello Everyone,
Do you need to use pressure treated lumber for the sole plate in basement partition walls? The walls will be sitting on the concrete slab. Also, does using a Hilte type nail ( 3") pose any potential problems for future water seepage? ( trying to fix the old problems, don't want to create new ones!)
Thanks for your help!
Jonathan
Do you need to use pressure treated lumber for the sole plate in basement partition walls? The walls will be sitting on the concrete slab. Also, does using a Hilte type nail ( 3") pose any potential problems for future water seepage? ( trying to fix the old problems, don't want to create new ones!)
Thanks for your help!
Jonathan
#2
07-24-04, 10:41 AM
Always use pressure treated lumber on top of concrete.
I obviously can't say for sure, but I would think(hope) that your slab is thicker than 1 1/2" so I don't think the 3" nails would be a problem.
Had a thought somewhat related, if you are framing your wall then lifting it into place, I would attach the PT lumber down first, then build the wall with conventional framing, using another sole plate. This way you don't have to leave the wall short for tilting purposes, build it to full height and tilt over the concrete, then lift straight up and slide it onto your PT plate. If you are going to build with just the one plate, I usually leave the wall short about 1/8" per foot of height for a 2x4 wall and about 1/4" for 2x6 walls. This may be a little too much, but its better than getting the wall tilted half way up and realizing...
....&%#..son of a....&#@%....I can't believe I did that $*@#&.......been there, done that, didn't much care for it myself, but if you like kicking and screaming, by all means...to each his own 
I obviously can't say for sure, but I would think(hope) that your slab is thicker than 1 1/2" so I don't think the 3" nails would be a problem.
Had a thought somewhat related, if you are framing your wall then lifting it into place, I would attach the PT lumber down first, then build the wall with conventional framing, using another sole plate. This way you don't have to leave the wall short for tilting purposes, build it to full height and tilt over the concrete, then lift straight up and slide it onto your PT plate. If you are going to build with just the one plate, I usually leave the wall short about 1/8" per foot of height for a 2x4 wall and about 1/4" for 2x6 walls. This may be a little too much, but its better than getting the wall tilted half way up and realizing...
....&%#..son of a....&#@%....I can't believe I did that $*@#&.......been there, done that, didn't much care for it myself, but if you like kicking and screaming, by all means...to each his own 
#3
07-24-04, 11:56 AM
Code here has always called for P/T or so called green wood lumber if it touches the cement. So yes the bottom plate has to be P/T. We also hang a 6 mil poly on the cement wall from the sill plate down before we put up the stud wall. Also dont forget to put insulation in the joist space all around the home up there on the sill plate or so called belt board.
ED
ED
#4
07-24-04, 12:04 PM
Thanks very much Ed and Jproffer,
Insolation ( including in the joists ) and poly are already on the exterior walls ( upper part is framed with insulation, lower part is cinderblock with basement wrap - r12 fiberglass with poly back ). These walls are being built inside.
Thanks again for all your help, and your lightning fast responses!
Jonathan
Insolation ( including in the joists ) and poly are already on the exterior walls ( upper part is framed with insulation, lower part is cinderblock with basement wrap - r12 fiberglass with poly back ). These walls are being built inside.
Thanks again for all your help, and your lightning fast responses!
Jonathan
