Framing/Vapor Barrier

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  #1  
Old 09-09-04, 07:07 AM
Spankyjumunkwa
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Framing/Vapor Barrier

I have a cinderblock basement that is old, cracked, but shows absolutely no signs of any past water damage or leakage whatsoever. I pulled down the paneling that was covering the walls, and am going to put up drywall. When I'm framing, how should I attach the vapor barrier? Should it be attached to the wall? Or should I attach it to the 2x4's? And how should I attach it? Can I staple it, or does it need to be glued? Any help is appreciated.
 
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Old 09-13-04, 02:55 PM
Spankyjumunkwa
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Anyone know?
 
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Old 09-13-04, 03:32 PM
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No Vapor Barrier

Originally Posted by Spankyjumunkwa
I have a cinderblock basement that is old, cracked, but shows absolutely no signs of any past water damage or leakage whatsoever. I pulled down the paneling that was covering the walls, and am going to put up drywall. When I'm framing, how should I attach the vapor barrier? Should it be attached to the wall? Or should I attach it to the 2x4's? And how should I attach it? Can I staple it, or does it need to be glued? Any help is appreciated.

Your walls need to framed in front of the masonry foundation and in front of it by several inches.

It is prudent to treat and seal the block wall before framing with a vapor barrier/proofing coating such as DryLok.

The only 'vapor barrier' that is required is the paper facing on your fiberglass insulation batts that will attached to the studs.

This paper will be oriented so that the paper faces the living space of the room.

No other barrier should be used or is required unless your specific code requires it.
 
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Old 09-14-04, 07:04 AM
Spankyjumunkwa
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Thank you for responding!
 
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