Another Basement Question


  #1  
Old 09-28-04, 07:08 AM
DJTrev
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Another Basement Question

My fiancé and I recently move into a 40-year-old 2-story colonial. When we had the home inspected we were told that there was moisture in the basement because of poor drainage on one side of the home. Which made sense because that wall was covered with mold. We removed a tree near the corner of the house, installed window well covers, brought in a clay/dirt mix and sloped the grade away from the house. We also extended the gutters to discharge rainwater farther away from the house. This has greatly helped to dry up the basement, they dehumidifier dose the rest.

Here are my questions:

1)We plan on finishing the basement (2x4 stud wall, insulation, drywall, etc). Beyond cleaning the concrete walls, what prep work should be done to prevent mold from coming back?
2)Should the new stud wall be placed directly against the concrete block wall, or should it be offset a few inches to allow the concrete wall to “breath”? Also, should the whole wall be made of pressure treated lumber?
3) Should a vapor barrier be installed with the new stud wall? I’d think that the barrier would just cause more moisture to be trapped between the barrier and the block wall, which would cause more mold?.?
4)The block wall has a paint/sealer on it, but is it pealing and falling off. Is there any advantage to applying another coat of paint?
5)Should the slab floor be treated with an epoxy sealer?

Thanks for the help!

Trevor

PS sorry for the long post
 
  #2  
Old 09-28-04, 10:01 AM
H
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Well Timed Question

I have very similar questions. I plan to use DryLoc on the basement walls because the bottom 6-12 inches are continually wet.

I searched the forum but came up empty. Anyone have comments on DryLor or alternative product?

A carpenter did suggest I use foam insulation directly on the cinderblocks instead of standard pink insulation because of the moisture. Then the 2x4's go right on top of the foam.

My home in northeast, finished basement room is near furnace so i'll just tap the ductwork for heat in winter (basement is cool in summer).
 
  #3  
Old 10-07-04, 07:35 AM
H
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BUMP for any comments
 
  #4  
Old 10-10-04, 08:15 AM
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Basement

The walls should be framed off of the walls by several inches.

Only the bottom plate needs to be treated or naturally rot reistant material.

Studs and top plates should be standard spf or other framing lumber.

Masonry walls should be sealed with a vapor barrier type paint such as DryLok, but should be stripped of old peeling paint before application. Best removal method is often sandblasting or powerwashing.

The only vapor retarded that should be used is paper facing with fiberglass insulation hung between the studs. Paper facing will be toward the living space side of the wall.

Eliminating the source of moisture will eliminate the mold problem.

If the floor has a plastic vapor barrier under the concrete, which should be present in a 40 year new home, it will not be necessary to epoxy the floor.


Helpful link:

http://www.extension.umn.edu/distrib...ng/DK7051.html
 
  #5  
Old 10-10-04, 01:21 PM
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Wink

Drylock works good if the wall is clean. We hang a 6 mil poly from the sill plate and set the stud wall just 1" from the cement wall use a R13 in the studs paper side to the room .Then a 4 mil poly over them then the drywall. A P/T for the bottom plate only. A R-19 cut to fit in each joist space there on the sill plate all around the home.

ED
 
  #6  
Old 10-14-04, 08:11 AM
DJTrev
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Great! Thanks for the help!
 
 

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