Framing question

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Old 12-07-04, 11:21 AM
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Framing question

I'm trying to familiarize myself with framing techniques and have a quick question on laying out studs from a corner. If you start from a corner framed using the technique show in situation 2 on this site:

http://www.bhg.com/bhg/story.jhtml?s...at10002&page=5

Can someone explain where you start the 16 oc spacing on the run by wall in this example?
 
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Old 12-07-04, 12:09 PM
speaker
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Re: framing

The reason that the studs are spaced like that is to accomodate drywall back-up on either side of a wall that will ajoin it.

What I used to do is, Let's say that the wall that will butt-up to the one you are framing is 80" from X, (inside measurement of that room). When you reach 80" on the one your building put a stud there (78 1/2" - 80" from x (keeping in mind studs measure1 1/2"x3 1/2)). Then measure 3 1/2" from the 80". from the 83 1/2" mark put another stud (83 1/2" - 85"). this will give you your desired (nailing)back up for your drywall, when you install that ajoining wall. Also nail a piece of scrap 2x4 in the void at eye level so when you do build this ajoining wall you have surface to nail it to (this wall will level automatically, when the first wall is leveled),Assuming that you have nailed it to the floor on the chalk line. they show another stud running the same way. just turn a 18" to 48" (whatever) on it's side and friction fit it in the void and nail it! (flush with the wall, facing in the direction of the ajoining wall), as I described.

Instead of all these measurements just chalk line the floor, and use a square to figure out where the ajoining wall goes.

when marking out a top and bottom plate (mark them together) at 16 o/c start by first measuring 15 1/4, along the 2 pieces tak a nail then proceed to mark your 16 o/c, so your drywall fits right on the middle of the 4th, 8th, 12th etc... stud on that wall. (very important on a long wall)
hope this helps
 
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Old 12-07-04, 12:52 PM
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I was actually asking about situation 2 which was the corner framing, I think you were describing situation 3. Although the information you gave was helpful and I'll jot it down :-) It's the layout of the next stud after the corner framing that I'm trying to figure out.
 
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Old 12-07-04, 03:14 PM
speaker
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I hear ya!

Sorrry Bro.
O.K. first off, see the stud they show closest to the word "plate" in Sit. 2. That stud should be turned 90 Degrees, so when the other wall goes up (that makes the corner) you have a better nailing surface, not to mention if that was an outside partition wall where would you put the insulation. anyhow... you can also pencil a line down the one I mentioned to turn 90 degrees, using a 2x4 as a template so that when you install the wall that makes the corner, just nail on the line, she's plumb.

Remember my last post about laying out on 16 o/c, well lay every wall out marking 16 o/c then obviously if you have a doorway omit those marks and when coming to a corner or ajoining wall, you will have to add a stud here and there.

in a basement non of these walls are bearing, so you can feel free to start your 16 0/c at whaever side of the wall you choose, doesn't matter.

I hope I THIS helps

if not post again
 
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Old 12-07-04, 04:58 PM
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Ok, so if I'm reading right this right it sounds like you're describing sit. 1 when you say to turn the stud 90 degrees...that's a better way to do it I guess.

One final question then I'll leave you alone :-) What I've been trying to figure out in corner framing is where does the first stud after the corner framing fall. I'm guessing you don't lay it out 16" from the "end stud" in this case since that's not where the drywall will eventually be starting. Do you lay out the first stud 16" from where the drywall will start on the nailing surface you created?
 
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Old 12-07-04, 05:41 PM
speaker
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Hey no problem, I am learning off other people conserning vapour/air barriers in open spaces, sonotubes anchored to bedrock etc.. cottage stuff, so that's what these things are all about!

Don't worry yourself about the corners. Cut 2 peices your top and bottom plate (some places require your bottom plate be PT) put them side by side flush length wise with each other. Take your tape measure and measure 15 1/4, then at that mark tac a nail, ((It doesn't matter if you start at the corner end or the wall end, just as long as you have a nailing surface for other walls ajoining and drywall)) then run your tape from that nail and mark at 16 (so the stud will be between 16 - 17 1/2 and just keep goin' like that. the reason especially in a basement that you want to run 16 o/c is for your sheathing to match your studs, no cutting
if this doesn't answer your Q. I want you tell me what is bothering you concerning 16 o/c or corners i.e. what mistake are you afraid of making? if I know that maybe I can help (let me know)
 
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Old 12-07-04, 07:22 PM
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That's crystal clean Speaker, thanks for the help. I think I was just over analyzing things :-)
 
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Old 12-08-04, 05:05 AM
speaker
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No problem

I just wanted to say, when walls are not bearing any load, you do not have to worry about anything other than creating a nailing surface for your sheathing, and ajoining walls. Aside from vapour/air barrier and insulation, but that's another issue (Vapour barrier warm side of insulation - cold climates)
good luck bro
 
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Old 12-08-04, 03:41 PM
speaker
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I meant to say "ALL CLIMATES" in other words the vapour/air barrier goes on the warm side regarless, sorry
 
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