Basement Framing Question


  #1  
Old 01-05-05, 05:32 AM
big_bogus's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Maryland
Posts: 59
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Basement Framing Question

Hi Everybody,

This is my first post here. Glad I found this informative board.

My question is about framing my already insulated basement walls. It is the foil faced blanket type insulation that is power nailed to the poured walls. The entire wall is covered.

What is the best method if I want to Maximize floor space. I am considering a treated plate, about 1/2 inch off of concrete wall, and rotating the studs 90 degrees ( of course aligned with the interior of the plate, Like the letter L).

This would allow plenty of room around the insulation for airflow and electrical.
I think this is R11 insulation. Is this adequate?


The interior walls will be steel and all walls will receive dry wall.

Any ideas or opinions??

Thanks!!
 
  #2  
Old 01-05-05, 06:51 AM
M
Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: PA, USA
Posts: 695
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Not sure what you are trying to accomplish by rotating the studs. If you push them back to the concrete wall, then there's no room for R-11 and electical boxes. If you bring them out, there's no space savings. Am I missing something?

Other than that - sounds good to me. Except you don't want any "airflow" behind the wall. You want dead air in there.
 
  #3  
Old 01-05-05, 07:07 AM
big_bogus's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Maryland
Posts: 59
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
The space savings is had by having the insulation basically in the wall instead of behind it. If i did a normal 2x4 wall, the bottom plate would have to be 3" or so away from the concrete wall to allow room for the existing insulation. Whereas in my proposed method of rotating the studs, the bottom plate can be closer to the concrete wall. The insulation blanket is almost to the floor, just not all the way.
 
  #4  
Old 01-05-05, 07:28 AM
M
Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: PA, USA
Posts: 695
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
I got you

Then my only advice would be to make sure that you can attach drywall to metal studs positioned that way. Good luck to ya.
 
  #5  
Old 01-05-05, 07:35 AM
Ed Imeduc's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Mountain Williams Missouri
Posts: 17,505
Upvotes: 0
Received 1 Upvote on 1 Post
Wink

Id want insulation all the way down on that outside wall for sure. If you want Lowes here now have 2X3 you could use for the studs.

ED
 
  #6  
Old 01-05-05, 07:45 AM
big_bogus's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Maryland
Posts: 59
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
I was thinking 2x4 wood studs for the outside wall turned 90 degress. I will have to measure the actual thickness of the insulation. Maybe 2x3 studs with 2x4 P/T botton plate??

I'll look into extending the insulation.
 
  #7  
Old 01-05-05, 01:25 PM
big_bogus's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Maryland
Posts: 59
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Lowes

Just returned from lowes. 2.5" metal studs x 8' for $2.82 each with the 10' channel for $2.12. How will they work on 16" centers for my exterior walls? Has anybody used them before?

Gotta love it when a plan comes together.

Thanks Ed for the tip.
 
  #8  
Old 01-05-05, 01:34 PM
Ed Imeduc's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Mountain Williams Missouri
Posts: 17,505
Upvotes: 0
Received 1 Upvote on 1 Post
Wink

Dont forget put a P/T wood plate on the bottom. Down here in Fl that is all they use steel stud 24" on center. But that is with drywall both sides, guess you might want to stay with 16" center with dry wall just one side.


ED
 
  #9  
Old 01-05-05, 02:34 PM
big_bogus's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Maryland
Posts: 59
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Yep

I wasn't going to do a plate, but the more I think about it, it will make life much easier when the time comes to install baseboards.

I also plan on using double studs every 48" so I can install the drywall vertically. Especially since my drywall skills need honing. Maybe 24" centers with double evey 48" (every other). That will save money, but will it be a strong wall?

One other question. I read a recommendation about using green board all around or at least the lower panel (when installing horizontially). Any good advice there? The extra cost is suppose to be minimal when compared to mold problems due to a flood.
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: