2x3's vs. 2x4's for non-weight baring walls?


Old 01-06-05, 07:22 AM
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2x3's vs. 2x4's for non-weight baring walls?

Does anyone have any strong feelings either way about using 2x3's to save some money? I was concidering using them on all the walls except one that will have a larger double, or slide doorway where I'd use 2x4 for added strength. Any advise?
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Old 01-06-05, 09:32 AM
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some place 2x4 are cheapper than 2x3
i would used 2x4 since sometime you might need wall outlet and the box 2x3
better used 2x4 i never used 2x3 except for sub floor in basement

Old 01-06-05, 09:36 AM
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I used 2x4s for phase 1 of my basement finish. By the time I did phase 2 lumber had gone up 30% and I could get the 2x3's for 30% less. They work fine and the ones I got were much straighter than the 2x4's I had used before.

Two issues with them though--you still need a pressure treated bottom plate on the concrete and I couldn't get those in 2x3 so you've got a difference. Wasn't a problem on the outside walls because I only needed drywall on one side, but it would be a problem for interior walls (unless you ripped them down which would be a pain and not worth the savings).

Also door jambs will not be the right width.

My suggestion is use 2x3s for all exterior walls (or walls with one side you know you'll never need to finish). And use 2x4s for all interior walls or walls with doors that need to be finished on both sides.
Old 01-07-05, 12:17 AM
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If you use 2z3s on exterior walls doesn't that mean that you can't fit R11 fiberglass insulation in there then? Or would you just frame an inch away from the concrete?
Old 01-07-05, 05:15 AM
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Response to Latuszek

I was already moving out about 8" so that I can clear my PVC drain lines that run across the two cement walls about halfway up. This space also leaves gap between insulation and walls.
Old 01-07-05, 06:41 AM
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Keep in mind that 2x3 will warp a lot more than 2x4 as it dries. You may want to let your lumber climatize in the basement for a month before framing.....
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