I've been doing some searches online but I really have no idea where to start so I'm looking for suggestions.

This is a two story townhome with a mostly finished walk-out basement. The unit is in the middle of a row. The front of the house has grading that comes up to the foundation so there are no windows but the back is of course walk out with a sliding glass door and one window. The walls appear to be poured concrete, constructed in 1990 but I believe the basement was finished after the fact.

The unfinished 'utility' room with washer/dryer, water heater and heat pump are at the front of the house while the finished section is the back half with the door/window. The unfinished area is walled off with a door. They put a single vent located in between the finished & unfinished areas. The overall basement is (supposedly) 560 sq ft with about 2/5 of that being unfinished area.

I haven't taken a temp down there, but it's definately 5+ degrees colder down there than the first floor. I can't tell any temp difference bewtween the finished & unfinished areas when I have the door closed.

On concern of mine is how can I tell if they insulated the finished area at all without knocking holes in everything? Since both areas seem equally cold I'm wondering if there is any. In addition, the single vent really does not seem like enough to warm the space. I've also wondered if there is a leak (or leaks) in the vents because the air coming out of the basement vent is blowing strong while the second floor only sees a trickle but that's another matter...

I've heard mention of insulating the exposed cement since that wall is 80% below ground, also checking any penetrations for leaks (like the dryer vent) but after that I'm at a loss as to why the room is so damn cold. I'd get a 110 baseboard heater but I'm not sure if that's even going to put a dent in the cold.

I guess I'm looking for solid methods to figure out where I'm leaking or am poorly insulated. In addition I think I need supplemental heat down there since I only have one vent and I think tapping a second one would rob the rest of the house which seems a little starved as it is. But mind you the rest of the house is pretty comfortable.

Thanks for your time!

 

Sometimes you can take a wall plate off of an outlet or switch and peek between the wall and the electric box.
I once took coat hanger and slipped it in between a outlet box and drywall and hooked a little insulation, just to make sure there was some there.
It wont tell you the R value of course.

 

If the finished area is sandwiched between other units and the front is covered up to 80% of the wall, the room should be fairly insulated and protected from outdoor drafts.

To me its sounds like you need another source vent somewhere else in the room and there should be a return vent. All the warm air is being pushed into the room but I wonder if there is a return vent to cycle the air.

 

No, there is no return, only one on the first and one on the second floor. Unless you're standing directly under the register, you really don't feel like there is any heat being applied to the room. Don't get me wrong, the air coming out is warm, but the heat just seems to get sucked away. Would a return (therefore creating circulation) improve things?

I was under the impression that the front wall being in the ground, it would leech heat....?

My biggest point of loss would seem to be the sliding door and window. But I can't tell any significant draft from them (mostly becuase I'm already cold). Does that window insulation work (the plastic stuff you set with a hair dryer)? Maybe that and a temporary blanket or something over the door to see if it improves conditions....?

 

hi
check the humidity of the room.
sometime humidity will make the room cold.
Try a dehumidifier and see if there any change.

pg

 

You dont say how big a register and supply pipe that is down there Is????? Yes for sure you need a return air grill down there. With the unit down there it can go right in the cold air drop. This side of the filter.That glass slider is it thermopane should be. Yes insulation on the cement walls will help. Also insulation up in the joist space right there on the sill plate all around will help. Whats the blower set on ??high??? do you keep filter clean every 30 to 90 days. is the coil in the blower unit clean ??? blower clean. Turn fan to fan on and let run 24/7 see what you get. Close down a little, some of the registers upstairs. You have a lot of ifs ifs here. When we are talking about heat you need all the humidity you can get. Post back here

ED

 

LOL, one says get a dehumidifier and the other says you need all the humidity you can get.

Prior to closing, the unit was serviced. The coil was actually replaced. The filter isn't even 30 days old yet. Again, the air coming out is warm and the inspector showed over a 20 degree diferrential, even with the older dirty coil. Ed in your post you said What's the significance of the 2nd "blower clean?" Do you mean the unit outside? Where/what should I be looking at as I'm not quite sure what that is.

Ed, there is no return in the basement at all. Only one supply register which I believe is a 10x4 in the ceiling with...I can't recall the size of the actual duct, I think it may be a 6" round. The 2nd floor return is a 10x20 (or maybe 10x16...) and the first floor has a 16" square cut out but the physical duct opening is only maybe 10x16 again.

"sill plate" Is that the space on top of the wall where the frame rests?

The door and window are cheap double pane. I've actually been toying with the idea of replacing all the windows to something decent.

I'm not sure how much difference closing the upper registers will make as the air coming out of them on the second floor is just a trickle, but I'll see. Is there any way to diagnose a duct leak in the walls or whatnot? I'm wondering if I'm being robbed of some volume somewhere.

 

I would start by installing a return air duct before anything else. This should definitely balance the air flow and increase the room temperature. Based on your description of the basement layout, this shouldn't be too expensive to do before you tackle other more labor intensive, costly options.
Good luck

 

Thanks ake,

I insulated the window and to some extent the door and things are much better down there so I'm guessing it's just the cheap stuff that's installed is my problem. The return would be relatively easy since the unit is right behind one of the finished walls. I'm guessing I should place the return low, yes?

 

cold air low for sure down there. This air will go through the filter there?????????.It has to are use a filter grill.

yes. should have a R 19 insulation up there to fit tight paper to the room.

ED