Cleaning Efflorescence.. Wire brush only?

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  #1  
Old 11-26-07, 07:04 PM
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Cleaning Efflorescence.. Wire brush only?

Hello,

I am a homeowner 'newbie' and am looking to drylok my basement. It is 'dry' in a sense there is no sump pump, no water penetration, etc. I have lived there for 4 years and the house is 20 years old. I do see some white efflorescence on the wall. Can I just use a wire brush to clean or do I need drylok etch, which I purchased, to clean? I read the instructions and am a little nervous on using. I am new to all of this and am afraid to or buring myself... Also, is it hard to use drylok? I had estimates on doing my basement, and most wer $500.. I can save that if I do it myself but since I don't know what I am really doing, will I cause more issues or not apply correctly resulting in wasting money and possible water seapage down the road?

Thank you!
 
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Old 11-26-07, 07:27 PM
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Wire brush will be fine! I would use a stiff broom. It will go a lot faster and
I don't think it will be over kill like the wire brush. Buy a thick roller and you will be fine.
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Old 11-26-07, 07:42 PM
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Hi Airman! Thanks fo your reply. Have you ever sed Drylok? Is it easy to apply? I wa just reading something on RandonSeal. I acually posted a new thread on it... Do you know anything about that? My radon levels are around 6. If Radon seal can reduce radon levels and can provide water penetration protection, that sounds like the way to go?
 
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Old 11-27-07, 03:45 AM
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I've never used Radon Seal.
Drylok isn't all that difficult to apply. The main thing is to apply a thick wet coat. You need to fill all the pores in the block/concrete. The easiest way to apply drylok is to slop it on the wall, smearing it into the wall and then gently go over the area with a dry roller to dress it up.
 
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Old 11-27-07, 10:53 AM
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is there any other 'safer' cleaners to use other then muratic acid or drylk etch? i do have efforesence but it is not that bad. Somone mentioned TSP?
 
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Old 11-27-07, 12:05 PM
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Just use a broom and brush it off!
 
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Old 11-27-07, 04:51 PM
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drylok's fine,,,

so's thoroseal,,, tsp works great,,, but don't expect either coating to stop water from the inside,,, it won't despite the labels
 
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Old 11-29-07, 05:19 AM
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One of the paint guys told me to use a small blow torch... He said to 'torch it'. By doing this, it will come off at ease and quick and won't damage the block. Is this true? Has anyone ever done this?
 
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Old 11-29-07, 05:42 AM
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That's a new one on me. A little heat might help to dry the block [efforesence is caused by moisture] but TOO MUCH heat will WEAKEN the block!!!

I've never had any issues with just wire brushing lightly over the efforesence and then applying the drylok. Stopping the water on the exterior is always best but not always practical.
 
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Old 11-29-07, 06:53 AM
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i'll try the wire brush.... My plumber was coming over tomorrow and he will have a torch on him. was going to ask him to torch it but I'll just try the brush.

Have you ever used the new Drylok Extreme???? Says it lasts for 15 years and has a new mold protector... Was thinking about using that instead of the regular drylok. Wasn't that much more...
 
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Old 11-29-07, 03:40 PM
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I've not used the drylok extreme, only the original oil base formula and the latex. While I believe the oil base does a little better job it isn't worth the extreme odor.

Why don't you give the new formula a try and give us a report
 
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Old 12-02-07, 08:41 AM
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Ok, I will

I might have someone do it instead of me.. The guy that put my roof on agreed to do it for $175 I supply the materials, of course.... He will clean the block, patch the holes and put 2 coats on... Sound good?
 
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Old 12-02-07, 09:41 AM
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The main thing is to apply the drylok liberally. If 2 coats don't fill the pores, it doesn't do a lot of good. The main reason for the 2nd coat is to hopefully seal anything that didn't get done properly the 1st time. I always slop it on, smearing it into all the pores and joints and then dress it up with the roller - when the roller is drier and the paint hasn't dried yet.
 
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Old 01-04-08, 07:10 AM
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Originally Posted by marksr View Post
The main thing is to apply the drylok liberally. If 2 coats don't fill the pores, it doesn't do a lot of good. The main reason for the 2nd coat is to hopefully seal anything that didn't get done properly the 1st time. I always slop it on, smearing it into all the pores and joints and then dress it up with the roller - when the roller is drier and the paint hasn't dried yet.
I was down in the basement today and noticed some 'pin holes' in some spots.... they applied the first coat with the brush and the second with the roller but I see till see some pin holes... Is it ok, since it's been a few days, to fill in the pin holes with the brush? I also want to apply another coat to the part of the wal that is underground... Can i still do that without issue or since it's been 2 days since the drylok was put on, it is too late?
 
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Old 01-04-08, 12:59 PM
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You shouldn't have any issues with applying more drylok. generally it can be recoated at anytime.
 
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Old 01-04-08, 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by marksr View Post
You shouldn't have any issues with applying more drylok. generally it can be recoated at anytime.
Excellent... Thanks!

1 more question. Have you ever used or know of anyone who used the Drylok Concrete paint? I just picked up a few gallons to do the concrete floor..
 
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Old 01-05-08, 06:21 AM
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I've never used drylok floor paint. IMO it is better to use a concrete stain instead of paint. Paint on a concrete floor almost always peels sooner or later. Stain will wear away but only needs a cleaning to restain as opposed to scraping, priming and then repainting.

I'd consider using the drylok floor paint IF there was a moisture problem with the slab.
 
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Old 01-07-08, 07:13 AM
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According to UGL, their concrete floor paint is designed for concrete/slabs and it does no peel. I hope that is true... I put the first coat on the area where I am not finishing, which will be storage, and came out great....
 
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Old 01-07-08, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by marksr View Post
I've never used drylok floor paint. IMO it is better to use a concrete stain instead of paint. Paint on a concrete floor almost always peels sooner or later. Stain will wear away but only needs a cleaning to restain as opposed to scraping, priming and then repainting.

I'd consider using the drylok floor paint IF there was a moisture problem with the slab.
Ok, the people I had put the Drylok on put 2 coats on.. After inspecting, I did seea few pin holes which I tried my best to fill in... On some parts, it looks like the pin holes keep reappearing!!!! Driving me nuts!!!! I have tried my best but some areas it seems like the pin holes keep reappearing...

Any suggestions? Since I put on like 4 coats per say in the area, not sure what else i can do.
 
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Old 01-08-08, 03:54 AM
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The correct way to apply drylok is to 'flood' the surface. Even let it run a little, wiping out the runs before they dry.

If the voids are too big for the drylok to seal - fill them with latex caulk.
 
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Old 01-08-08, 04:59 AM
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Originally Posted by marksr View Post
The correct way to apply drylok is to 'flood' the surface. Even let it run a little, wiping out the runs before they dry.

If the voids are too big for the drylok to seal - fill them with latex caulk.
I have been with a brush.... Holes looked filled.. They are tiny pin holes, I come back the next day and there they are again!
 
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Old 01-08-08, 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by marksr View Post
The correct way to apply drylok is to 'flood' the surface. Even let it run a little, wiping out the runs before they dry.

If the voids are too big for the drylok to seal - fill them with latex caulk.
Should I go over the section with Drlok fast plub/patch or masonary caulk, let it dry and then the next day pwut drylok over it again?
 
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Old 01-08-08, 12:45 PM
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I'd just use acrylic latex caulk and then paint over it with the drylok.
 
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Old 01-08-08, 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by marksr View Post
I'd just use acrylic latex caulk and then paint over it with the drylok.
Thanks buddy.... Much appreciated!
 
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