Cleaning Efflorescence.. Wire brush only?
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Cleaning Efflorescence.. Wire brush only?
Hello,
I am a homeowner 'newbie' and am looking to drylok my basement. It is 'dry' in a sense there is no sump pump, no water penetration, etc. I have lived there for 4 years and the house is 20 years old. I do see some white efflorescence on the wall. Can I just use a wire brush to clean or do I need drylok etch, which I purchased, to clean? I read the instructions and am a little nervous on using. I am new to all of this and am afraid to or buring myself... Also, is it hard to use drylok? I had estimates on doing my basement, and most wer $500.. I can save that if I do it myself but since I don't know what I am really doing, will I cause more issues or not apply correctly resulting in wasting money and possible water seapage down the road?
Thank you!
I am a homeowner 'newbie' and am looking to drylok my basement. It is 'dry' in a sense there is no sump pump, no water penetration, etc. I have lived there for 4 years and the house is 20 years old. I do see some white efflorescence on the wall. Can I just use a wire brush to clean or do I need drylok etch, which I purchased, to clean? I read the instructions and am a little nervous on using. I am new to all of this and am afraid to or buring myself... Also, is it hard to use drylok? I had estimates on doing my basement, and most wer $500.. I can save that if I do it myself but since I don't know what I am really doing, will I cause more issues or not apply correctly resulting in wasting money and possible water seapage down the road?
Thank you!
#2
Wire brush will be fine! I would use a stiff broom. It will go a lot faster and
I don't think it will be over kill like the wire brush. Buy a thick roller and you will be fine.
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I don't think it will be over kill like the wire brush. Buy a thick roller and you will be fine.
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Hi Airman! Thanks fo your reply. Have you ever sed Drylok? Is it easy to apply? I wa just reading something on RandonSeal. I acually posted a new thread on it... Do you know anything about that? My radon levels are around 6. If Radon seal can reduce radon levels and can provide water penetration protection, that sounds like the way to go?
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I've never used Radon Seal.
Drylok isn't all that difficult to apply. The main thing is to apply a thick wet coat. You need to fill all the pores in the block/concrete. The easiest way to apply drylok is to slop it on the wall, smearing it into the wall and then gently go over the area with a dry roller to dress it up.
Drylok isn't all that difficult to apply. The main thing is to apply a thick wet coat. You need to fill all the pores in the block/concrete. The easiest way to apply drylok is to slop it on the wall, smearing it into the wall and then gently go over the area with a dry roller to dress it up.
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One of the paint guys told me to use a small blow torch... He said to 'torch it'. By doing this, it will come off at ease and quick and won't damage the block. Is this true? Has anyone ever done this?
#9
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That's a new one on me. A little heat might help to dry the block [efforesence is caused by moisture] but TOO MUCH heat will WEAKEN the block!!!
I've never had any issues with just wire brushing lightly over the efforesence and then applying the drylok. Stopping the water on the exterior is always best but not always practical.
I've never had any issues with just wire brushing lightly over the efforesence and then applying the drylok. Stopping the water on the exterior is always best but not always practical.
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i'll try the wire brush.... My plumber was coming over tomorrow and he will have a torch on him. was going to ask him to torch it but I'll just try the brush.
Have you ever used the new Drylok Extreme???? Says it lasts for 15 years and has a new mold protector... Was thinking about using that instead of the regular drylok. Wasn't that much more...
Have you ever used the new Drylok Extreme???? Says it lasts for 15 years and has a new mold protector... Was thinking about using that instead of the regular drylok. Wasn't that much more...
#11
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I've not used the drylok extreme, only the original oil base formula and the latex. While I believe the oil base does a little better job it isn't worth the extreme odor.
Why don't you give the new formula a try and give us a report
Why don't you give the new formula a try and give us a report
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Ok, I will
I might have someone do it instead of me.. The guy that put my roof on agreed to do it for $175 I supply the materials, of course.... He will clean the block, patch the holes and put 2 coats on... Sound good?
I might have someone do it instead of me.. The guy that put my roof on agreed to do it for $175 I supply the materials, of course.... He will clean the block, patch the holes and put 2 coats on... Sound good?
#13
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The main thing is to apply the drylok liberally. If 2 coats don't fill the pores, it doesn't do a lot of good. The main reason for the 2nd coat is to hopefully seal anything that didn't get done properly the 1st time. I always slop it on, smearing it into all the pores and joints and then dress it up with the roller - when the roller is drier and the paint hasn't dried yet.
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The main thing is to apply the drylok liberally. If 2 coats don't fill the pores, it doesn't do a lot of good. The main reason for the 2nd coat is to hopefully seal anything that didn't get done properly the 1st time. I always slop it on, smearing it into all the pores and joints and then dress it up with the roller - when the roller is drier and the paint hasn't dried yet.
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1 more question. Have you ever used or know of anyone who used the Drylok Concrete paint? I just picked up a few gallons to do the concrete floor..
#17
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I've never used drylok floor paint. IMO it is better to use a concrete stain instead of paint. Paint on a concrete floor almost always peels sooner or later. Stain will wear away but only needs a cleaning to restain as opposed to scraping, priming and then repainting.
I'd consider using the drylok floor paint IF there was a moisture problem with the slab.
I'd consider using the drylok floor paint IF there was a moisture problem with the slab.
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According to UGL, their concrete floor paint is designed for concrete/slabs and it does no peel. I hope that is true... I put the first coat on the area where I am not finishing, which will be storage, and came out great....
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I've never used drylok floor paint. IMO it is better to use a concrete stain instead of paint. Paint on a concrete floor almost always peels sooner or later. Stain will wear away but only needs a cleaning to restain as opposed to scraping, priming and then repainting.
I'd consider using the drylok floor paint IF there was a moisture problem with the slab.
I'd consider using the drylok floor paint IF there was a moisture problem with the slab.
Any suggestions? Since I put on like 4 coats per say in the area, not sure what else i can do.
#20
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The correct way to apply drylok is to 'flood' the surface. Even let it run a little, wiping out the runs before they dry.
If the voids are too big for the drylok to seal - fill them with latex caulk.
If the voids are too big for the drylok to seal - fill them with latex caulk.
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I have been with a brush.... Holes looked filled.. They are tiny pin holes, I come back the next day and there they are again!
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Should I go over the section with Drlok fast plub/patch or masonary caulk, let it dry and then the next day pwut drylok over it again?