footings / foundation under porch
#1
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I have a existing open porch(7'x23') that I would like to convert to a room, but it appears that the porch is just sitting on 2 cinder blocks (in 4 places) with no footings and is sloping downward a little bit. What would be the best action to take on trying to put footing / cylinder type under it with treated posts? Also what kind of skirting would you put on the porch where it meets the ground (plywood ??) so there is not much rotting? I live in southern minnesota. any info you could give would be appreciated.
#2

WELCOME MICHAEL!
first, you need to level the floor and possibly re-inforce it. you didn't say what type and spacing floor joists you have. on a 7 foot span i would go with no less than 2x8-16 inch on center. double the outside joists/band and put a foundation under it. if you are going to live in it, you don't want it to settle/sag. you also didn't say how it was attached to the house? more info will result in better responses. keep us posted.
first, you need to level the floor and possibly re-inforce it. you didn't say what type and spacing floor joists you have. on a 7 foot span i would go with no less than 2x8-16 inch on center. double the outside joists/band and put a foundation under it. if you are going to live in it, you don't want it to settle/sag. you also didn't say how it was attached to the house? more info will result in better responses. keep us posted.
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It's an ambitious project, but certainly do-able. First thing to do is check with your local permit office for local specific regulations/requirements for your addition. Depending on your particulars, it is possible (not likely) that you can't even get approval to build. Once you get that out of the way - you'll need to design plans and submit them for approval. In your part of the country, I would guess your piers will need to extend at least 30 inches into the ground (below frost line) and possibly require air entrained concrete. Probably don't want to hear this, but you'll quite possibly be better off removing the old deck and starting from scratch. From there, you'll begin the framing process to ensure your new addition is properly put together - followed by all the other "details" involved with building a new room.
One of the last details you'll tackle will be the "skirting" around the base perimeter... and your options are many, including rotproof latticework. (no wood in ground contact).
One of the last details you'll tackle will be the "skirting" around the base perimeter... and your options are many, including rotproof latticework. (no wood in ground contact).
#4
Z, I am humbled by your excellent advice and promise to never again tease you about being nonchalant regarding building codes
So, Michael, your first stop will be to the city or county planning and zoning office to discover what the necessary requirements are before submitting your plans for approval.

So, Michael, your first stop will be to the city or county planning and zoning office to discover what the necessary requirements are before submitting your plans for approval.
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my porch as of right now consists of 2x6 joists attached at the house on a ledger board (in metal joist holders) at 16" on center. The roof (asphalt type) is supported by 4 square beams on the edge. The floor is supported on only 2 cinder blocks in 3 locations only.
Could I put footings in every 4-6 feet to support the floor. I was going to put the cylinder type in at a little over 42", which is the frost line.
This room will be like a 4 season / computer room.
Could I put footings in every 4-6 feet to support the floor. I was going to put the cylinder type in at a little over 42", which is the frost line.
This room will be like a 4 season / computer room.
#6
Michael, I'm sorry, but we don't know. You have to tell us that information and then we can help you with construction questions.
Do you know where the zoning office is in your community? To search on the web, use your locality+building approval.
Do you know where the zoning office is in your community? To search on the web, use your locality+building approval.
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Thank you Connie, for the vote of confidence..
Michael: I might suggest the DIY book "House Framing" by John D. Wagner - available at any big box store. It not only covers the many topics you'll be facing, it also has charts showing allowable spans by various sizes/grades/species of wood. Those charts will enable you to design your new addition properly (though the permit office will have the final say). In answer to your specific question - depending on the wood you use for your framing support - you will be able to put in piers every 8 - 10 feet. Don't go quoting that as gospel - as I said, it depends on the size/grade/species of wood that you use as well as your construction technique.
Michael: I might suggest the DIY book "House Framing" by John D. Wagner - available at any big box store. It not only covers the many topics you'll be facing, it also has charts showing allowable spans by various sizes/grades/species of wood. Those charts will enable you to design your new addition properly (though the permit office will have the final say). In answer to your specific question - depending on the wood you use for your framing support - you will be able to put in piers every 8 - 10 feet. Don't go quoting that as gospel - as I said, it depends on the size/grade/species of wood that you use as well as your construction technique.