water entering corner of basement floor

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Old 08-25-08, 07:57 PM
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water entering corner of basement floor

We bought this house that was built in 1977 2 years ago, no water problems reported during closeing.
This spring here in Iowa we had some major flooding and heavy rains around April through June.During one of the heavy rain down pours I noticed in one corner outside that the water pools up alot.
I have the downspout run out about 8-10 ' but during heavy rain or a few hours of the sprinkler running the ground has standing water.
Also I was getting seepage at the corner inside, also with garden hose set a few inches from foundation and turned on for 30 minutes.
I then removed a 6' x 6' section of drywall, studs, insulation and plastic sheeting to see where water was seeping in from.
That is where , with hose running that it was comeing in at the corner where floor meets and a foot or so along the base.Also seen that previous owner must of had the same problem because at each block seam they painted with some sort of cement paint.Looks more like paint than any thick sealer.Also I can see that some cement blocks were darker in color so I held my palm against them and I wicked a lot of moisture from them.Needles to say a section of 2 x 4's along floor were black and still wet.Over all not a lot of water but sure keeps from makeing another room with sheet rock just to have to redo a wall in a year.I dont think slope outside is an issue, maybe wrong though, lots of clay and sand here.
If I recover foundation floor where it meets wall and totally cover cement blocks, not just where they are joined from inside with drylock will this help or will it cause the water to transfer to another area that is fine and seep in there?
Or should I just have the outside dug up 7 ft down and call a contractor in my area that does the rubr wall coating?
Thanks for any input.
 
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Old 08-26-08, 04:14 AM
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If water pools outside, the grading is not correct. 90% of basement water problems can be corrected or significantly reduced by proper grading and working gutters/downspouts that get the water away from the foundations.

Sometimes, several treatments are needed, including, waterproof coatings on the foundation walls, helps, not a cure; moisture barriers under the layer of topsoil; perimeter drains at the footer level; and others.
 
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Old 08-26-08, 09:09 AM
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Old 08-26-08, 10:55 AM
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water entering corner of basement floor

As mentioned earlier, your grading is not adequate if the soil gets saturated. You may carry water 8' away, but without a slope, it can still soak into the ground and migrate back to the house. It is not surprising that water showed up inside when the hose was running above and outside.

The spot where the water is coming in is just the easiest spot to come through, but there undoubtedly other areas very similar around the basement.

Your water could be coming through the walls or coming up through the joint (created the the floor shrinking as it cures)between the floor and wall. Either could staurate the block.

With extended rains, water can accumulate around a foundation and under the floor. Even after 30 years, the soil bacfilled around the foundation is still not as dense or impermeable as the natural undisturbed soil around the house.

Before applying any coating, consider closing and waterproofing the floor/wall joint. Open up the joint (in a dovetail shape if possible), clean it out and force in hydraulic cement (generic name) mixed according to directions. It will be very stiff, will set up quickly and expands as it cured to "plug" the joint. It can be applied when the concrete is damp/wet.

After packing the joint, clean the block as well as possible with a wire brush. Mix Thoroseal exactly as directed and let it set as directed. The directions will say to moisten the wall, if necessary, to get a good bond and make application easier. The Thoroseal will have the consistancy of pancake batter and it work to apply and is not like paint-type coatings, which must be applied to a dry wall. Coat the seals joint also since the materials are compatible. - Concrete below grade is very difficult to get dry enough for a paint coating.

Thoroseal has been used for years as a coating, waterproofer for new and restored concrete products on a commercial and residential projects for many years. The addition of a bond enhancer (Acryl 60 or similar) will improve the bond and densify the coating as it cures.

Good luck!!

Dick
 
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Old 08-26-08, 01:12 PM
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water problem

tons of good info here. Also check out this article with a good overview on drainage. A little technical, but touches on this topic.

http://www.oldhouseweb.com/stories/Detailed/10286.shtml
 
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Old 09-01-08, 07:07 PM
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follow up

to message by concretemasonry
Thanks.
The floor where it meets the wall doesnt have any sort of gap.
Wall is firm against floor.
I forgot to mention in my original post that approx: 6 inches in from corner of basement (SW) corner there is a crack starting at the sill-right below vinyl siding bottom edge that goes below ground ,dont know how far down.
From inside it stair stepped about 4 ft down on both sides of corner.But I dont see the straight down crack as I see on outside.After doing the water hose thing on my las post,the area is now drying out with all but the very bottom 6" block dry.This one is still dark grey and damp.
I called a mason in to give an estimate and and see what he recommended.
He said he would dig down 4 feet in the corner, both directions of corner and re-tuck and seal.Also said he would back fill with more dirt,around 4 truck loads, to bring it up against foundation another 8 inches or so, basically a block height,and run out 12 ft in both sides of corner.Sure sounds like most of it is the gradeing of soil that everyone talks about.
I also have a plastic border around foundation in that corner with some river rock that he said was a bad thing since rock like that, makes things worse.?
Well its been a week and I havent heard back from him as far as a price quote,also left a message with him to call back 3 days ago and no reply yet from him.
Maybe he thinks the job is too small and that anyone could do this.
Does this make sence as far as what he recommends? and if I dont hear back should I attempt this myself.
The tucking I have no clue on.What if I dig down 4 ft.2 ft away from wall and seal with a PL crack sealerand have dirt hauled in and grade away and cover with sod.That I can handle.With what I just wrote,would this also stop the seepage at the base where floor meets wall in the corner and a few feet in both directions?
Sorry for the long post.
I know with the massive flooding here in Iowa last spring contractors are running to the tornado and flood damaged homes for the complete jobs.
Thanks.
 
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