Refinish Basement


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Old 10-26-08, 05:02 PM
C
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Refinish Basement

I am looking into Refinishing my Basement. How do you frame a wall.
My floor is cement, walls are cement & ceiling...Unfortunately when i was younger i never took the time to have my father show me how to do projects, or he was very impatient.

Would someone please explain on how to do this ?
 
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Old 10-26-08, 06:16 PM
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do a lot of research about what you want to accomplish, then i would recommend picking up a book on framing from a big box store they will have a lot of good ideas in them, is your basement dry, if not you will need to plan for that in your remodel also. check back here for more help also but you might not even need to do any framing depending on what you want to accomplish.

if we're not supposed to eat animals why are they made out of meat?
 
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Old 10-27-08, 06:06 AM
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Framing basement walls

As Speed noted, the first thing you need is to be sure that your basement is dry. And by dry I mean, no leakages. No puddles around the floor and no signs of moisture on the walls.
Signs of moisture include water or rusty stains, moldy corners, a sort of powdery ashy (sometimes glittery) substance along the walls called efflorescence.

Even if you find no signs of damage, I'd recommend you to get a hygrometer and get a reading of basement moisture levels, specially during humid days.

If your basement moisture level or relative humidity levels reads at anything above 70%, you will be at risk of growing a mold farm in your newly finished basement.
That means, your basement project should include a good dehumidifier.

Now, let's say your basement is dry and moisture free. Before you start framing it, consider installing a vapor barrier in the walls. Concrete is a very porous surface and water can still seep in through capillary action.

Avoid using wood for the framing (organic matter supports mold growth), and fiberglass is a no-no for basement insulation.

Since you have no experience with framing, I'd suggest you consider a modular basement wall system. You will not need to frame,install a vapor barrier, insulation or use drywall (that is the worst part for people with no experience). They are interlocking systems that can be removed as needed to access the wiring, plumbing or if you ever need to fix a wall crack, and can be installed in a couple of days. (Drywall can take weeks)

For the flooring, you can also go for laminates or tile systems specifically designed for basement. They need to be 100% inorganic and waterproof. The advantage is, they are also an "all-in-one" solution. You need no vapor barrier or subfloor. They can be laid directly over the concrete slab.

Consider that even the dry basements are prone to water accidents (plumbing leaks upstairs, blown water tanks, burst washing machine hoses). You want something that can be repaired and dried easily. Wood framing and many types of insulation will soak up water and rot. Drywall, carpet and wooden floors and subfloors will always need to be replaced in case of such accidents.

Hope this information helps. Feel free to ask me if you have any doubts.
 
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Old 10-27-08, 06:23 AM
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Framing

If you want to stick-build the walls:

1) Use treated lumber for any wood touching masonry(masonry floors, walls, or ceilings)
2)Secure the treated 2x4 bottom plate to the concrete with a powder actuated nailer or Tapcon screws.
3)The top plate should be 2 2x4's stacked one on top of the other.
4)Install the studs on 16 inch centers.
 
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Old 10-27-08, 01:04 PM
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CyFree's got it partially right.

If you're going to put vapor barrier up in the first place, you need to have it going somewhere. Interior drain system can capture everything that's back there and move it along to be removed from the home.

Moisture still comes through your foundation regardless of cracks or visable leaks.

CyFree's right again with no organic anything being used in construction. There are plenty of moisture resistant materials out there like metal studs and MoldTough from USG that can get you a nice result. There's moisture resistant flooring and subflooring as well.

If you're going to have removable pannels, i would suggest planning them out. Make a map to determine where the wires are going to run, run them, and then have access panels there, but not for the whole basement.

Try to plan most of your wiring along floor joists. It's far easier to install a drop ceiling and have access there, hidden, then it is to worry about multiple pannels of your wall having to be removed.

I, myself, am doing something similar with my septic line. Still have to have access, so i'm designing a simple door to it, rather then an access pannel. That's just my taste though.

Even pressure treated wood is bad to put down there. The chemicals they use in that stuff when in contact with moisture is nasty business to have floating around your home.
 
 

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