Home Depot Mold Fogger??

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  #1  
Old 08-09-10, 03:57 PM
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Home Depot Mold Fogger??

We have been told we have mold growing in our attic (which we do not use for anything). Estimates have been coming in ~$4000 for removal. Has anybody used the mold removal fogger you can rent at Home Depot, concrobium? Any reviews?

Thanks
C
 
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  #2  
Old 08-09-10, 04:06 PM
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Sorry I can't help regarding the "mold fogger", but before I spend 4k on mold removal I would find out what kind of mold (the vast majority of molds are benign), why I have mold (moisture), and how do I keep it from recurring (poor ventilation).
 
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Old 08-09-10, 09:06 PM
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4 grand is a bit high for a Normal atic. As far as the fogger goes you will not be able to put the amount of chemicals on the truss and decking that is needed. Most of the companies that do a crapy job use them. We use airless sprayers.
 
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Old 08-09-10, 09:40 PM
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I tried to use the Concrobium mold system through HD on a shed . . . roughly 250 sq. ft.

Got home w/ the electric fogger, and it didnít work. My bad as my two prior unrelated equipment rentals from my local HD had to be returned because of equipment malfunction.

I donít think their fogger is suitable for a whole house job . . . way to much time lost w/ set-up instructions. Read the directions on the Concrobium label as to how their product and fogger is supposed to be used, and I think youíll realize itís not suitable for what youíre trying to do.
 
  #5  
Old 08-10-10, 09:09 AM
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Mold Fogger

This sounds like western medicine. Attack the symptom and to hell with the cause.

Mold occurs when moisture content and temperature is above a certain level. If you remove the moisture, and equalize the temperature, the mold cannot propagate. Most mold problems are really dew point problems, or air loss problems. If you have an unfinished attic and there is mold on the underside of the roof deck in cold weather, you are losing warm, moist air from the living space, you have inadequate ventilation, or both. When warm air hits the cold underside of the roof deck, it condenses. There you have a great environment for mold. warm, dark, wet. A mold "Fogger" is a temporary repair, like weed killer. The mold will be back, like the terminator.

The rule of thumb is that the vapor retarder goes on the warm side, and the dew point must fall within the insulation. You cannot have what I like to refer to as "A plane of radical temperature change" like the outside of a glass of ice water on a hot humid day. Shes-a-gonna sweat.

Have any of you considered what the crap you are killing the mold with is doing to your families lungs? You may be better off with the mold!!!

You have to address the cause, my friends, not the symptom!
 

Last edited by jagans; 08-10-10 at 09:26 AM.
  #6  
Old 08-10-10, 10:20 AM
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All, thanks for the replies. We intend on addressing the cause (poor ventilation) before we get rid of the mold; however, that is relatively low cost compared to what companies in the DC area want to charge for mold cleaning. That's why I was asking about the DIY fogger which is more economical.
 
  #7  
Old 08-10-10, 10:30 AM
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Mold removal is a burgeoning industry along with lead and asbestos removal. Part of the reason the industry is burgeoning is that the industry uses the media to frighten people into thinking that if they have mold, or lead paint or asbestos tile they're all gonna' die!

Unless your family has some health problems that you know are related to the mold in your attic, I would opt for fixing the moisture problem and then see how the mold fares.
 
  #8  
Old 08-10-10, 11:43 AM
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Thanks Wayne. We live in a house from the early 50s. Both my wife and I grew up in old houses which probably had mold in the attics and maybe basements and neither one of us (or our families) are any worse for it. While we'd like to use the attic for storage it isn't that important - we'll get the problem fixed eventually but since we never go up there and it doesn't feed into our air supply then it isn't a priority.
 
  #9  
Old 08-10-10, 06:12 PM
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For an average size attic in dc I would charge about 1200 depending on how much chemical was needed. And about another 1200 for an inhibiter. All chemicals should be EPA approved for the use.
 
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