Basement wall advice ??
#1
12-31-00, 08:10 PM
Hello All,
I am starting my basement finishing project. I am looking for advice on how to finish the walls. My home is a split foyer, so the basement walls are half concrete and the top half is framed/insulated wall. The problem I see is that the foundation wall is approx. 4" wider than the framed wall. Any suggestions on this situation would be great. I'm not sure if I should dry wall the top framed half and panel the bottom, or frame it all out(more $$)
Thanks for the help
,
Bill & Joyce
I am starting my basement finishing project. I am looking for advice on how to finish the walls. My home is a split foyer, so the basement walls are half concrete and the top half is framed/insulated wall. The problem I see is that the foundation wall is approx. 4" wider than the framed wall. Any suggestions on this situation would be great. I'm not sure if I should dry wall the top framed half and panel the bottom, or frame it all out(more $$)
Thanks for the help
,Bill & Joyce
#2
12-31-00, 08:37 PM
Member
You could just frame a new floor to ceiling wall in front of the foundation. However, many people like to just frame a half-wall in front of the foundation and run a ledge on top of it back to the stud wall. You can use regular one-by wood for the ledge -- either painted pine, or if your budget allows, something nicer like oak.
As to whether to use drywall or paneling or both, it's a personal choice. I think I'd just use drywall, but paneling on the lower half would create a popular wainscotting effect.
As to whether to use drywall or paneling or both, it's a personal choice. I think I'd just use drywall, but paneling on the lower half would create a popular wainscotting effect.
Basement Framing
metal studs..
#8
08-03-01, 05:32 PM
Member
Jeff,
I'm going to make a wild guess that when you say "I'm doing just this" you're talking about finishing your basement, not using metal studs.
Why not just run a ledger board along the bottom of the wall above the foundation. Then build the wall the same height as the top of the ledger board. Then simply bridge the gap from the top of the wall to the top of the ledger board with anything you want (e.g., one-by lumber, or 2x4s on edge if the gap is larger).
I'm going to make a wild guess that when you say "I'm doing just this" you're talking about finishing your basement, not using metal studs.
Why not just run a ledger board along the bottom of the wall above the foundation. Then build the wall the same height as the top of the ledger board. Then simply bridge the gap from the top of the wall to the top of the ledger board with anything you want (e.g., one-by lumber, or 2x4s on edge if the gap is larger).
#9
08-06-01, 05:14 PM
Thanks, John. I am talking about framing a split basement in general, and not about steel.
The ledger sounds like a good idea. Plywood would be good to bridge the gap. The gap would be about 2". The 2x6 sill with the kneewall sitting on it is built on an 8" thick concrete wall, leaving a 1 1/2" ledge. Then I'd want to put the lower wall 1/2" away from the concrete.
But then I don't have a nailing surface for the bottom edge of the top half of the sheet rock. I guess I'd have to block in between the studs all the way down the wall just above the ledger. Can anyone think of a way to avoid this ?
I took out a permit to do this construction because I don't want to be in trouble down the road if I should want to sell the place. I know of horror stories about construction having to be ripped out 10 years later.
So I have to construct it in such a way to satisfy the building inspector.
The ledger sounds like a good idea. Plywood would be good to bridge the gap. The gap would be about 2". The 2x6 sill with the kneewall sitting on it is built on an 8" thick concrete wall, leaving a 1 1/2" ledge. Then I'd want to put the lower wall 1/2" away from the concrete.
But then I don't have a nailing surface for the bottom edge of the top half of the sheet rock. I guess I'd have to block in between the studs all the way down the wall just above the ledger. Can anyone think of a way to avoid this ?
I took out a permit to do this construction because I don't want to be in trouble down the road if I should want to sell the place. I know of horror stories about construction having to be ripped out 10 years later.
So I have to construct it in such a way to satisfy the building inspector.
#10
08-06-01, 06:09 PM
Member
You could put in blocking if you want, and it would provide an extra measure of support, but you don't really need it. You don't have to be able to screw (you said nail, but I'd never use a nail in drywall) along the entire bottom. You'll be putting studs every 16" (you will won't you -- don't mess with 24" studs), so you'll be able to screw them every 16 inches. That's all you get along the middle horizontal seam of any wall (you are installing the drywall horizontally, aren't you -- don't do it vertically).
