Head Scratching on a Basement Door

Hello!

This is my first post here at do it yourself.com and I am glad to be here!

Approximately 9 months ago I started on a basement renovation. I wanted to do everything right so I bought (& Read ) books, watched shows, and read articles on how to do it right. I demoed the crap the last people left, and started fresh. No More Black Mold! Yay!

I used 3" XPS on the walls and have gotten everything tuck taped and sealed. I have framed 5/6ths of the basement but I am completely clueless on how I should go about framing this wall.

The problem is that I have no clue how I should frame around this window. Traditionally I would create a "ledge" in front of the window, but notice how close the window and the door are! Why someone would do this, I have no clue. Secondly they ran the kitchen drain pipe directly above the door.



The second problem is that the drain pipe lowers (for the water to drain, I get that) all the way across the back wall. Ugh. This seems like it would be a pretty common problem. Should I just frame the wall 12" out from the kneewall? Picture below.



You can see the pipe lower here.




Taking all suggestions and thank you for your help in advance!

 

Welcome to the forums! I would frame up a 2x4 wall vertically in plane with the knee wall. It would give you clearance for the pipe with minimal modification to the studs. You would build jamb extensions out for the door and window. You may have to custom make a mullion type molding combining the door and window ( I agree, duh). If you haven't decided on any particular molding, you could use 1x dimension lumber for all your molding and let one piece do the left stile of the door and the right stile of the window.

 

Furring out the wall will also give you someplace to put the A/C line set as well. You could also reroute it so it doesn't go through the foundation.

That Chandler has good ideas!

You might also think about buying a new door with wider jambs. Otherwise the door will only open 90 degrees.

 

If it were mine, that window would get moved over, away from the door, by at least a foot, maybe even several feet.

You did say you wanted to do everything right, right?

 

Not to complicate things more but some one with bad intentions could easily put their hand through the lower corner of the window pain and reach in and unlock the door. (just sayin')

 

If it didn't affect the exterior too much, and you can get a new header in, I'd move the window, too, possibly using the body of the person who put it in to begin with as a stud That's not a good design.
Njnorsky, as far as "security", it would be nothing to tap the middle pane and reach the window lock, too. Not too much more difficult to use the dog door, too. I don't thing security is paramount in this installation.

 

I just thought of two other points. What is going on around insulation and vapor control between the foundation and the current door jams. I don't see much or any for that matter from the photo. Also what is above the door opening? Is there a header? It almost looks to me that there is none and that someone cut under the sill plate without installing a header with jack studs. If there is brick work on the outside is there also a lental installed? I would worry about the structural issues and missing door jam insultation before worrying about installing trim casing and window sills.

 

I'd suggest do away with the window and frame the door into an alcove a foot wider on either side of the door using Sheetrock returns. That way no interference with the opening of the door.

If it is brick veneer outside I'd just remove the window and put in a plywood panel to close the opening then cement backer board and let my creative nature install a pattern in ceramic tiles on that. At least for me easier then try to seamlessly match the old brick with new.