my conundrum - drylok or not to drylok

I am about to put up the sheetrock over my cinderblock foundation (only about 4' high raised ranch) and was going to drylok first but then started to think if i really needed or even should do it.
There are 2x3 studs over the cinderblock that carry all the wiring around the rooms and those studs are nailed in pretty damn good, they are still in good shape to.
If im going to drylok i KNOW i should remove the studs and then paint but honestly i dont want to disturb the already good studding but dont want to drylok over the studs then have 2" spaces with no sealant behind the studs. My reason for the drylok was hopefully to help with any humidty and smells since its all being refinished But since its above grade Im not sure if its even going to make a differance. On a side note to the paneling i removed had some pretty bad rot so i know SOME moisture gets behind there.

any tips I would like to make some progress this weekend.
thanks

 

What's on the exterior side of the block?

 

its is painted but i dont know with what to be honest

 

I'd make any repairs if needed and then paint the block with an elastromeric paint, that should waterproof the block from the exterior.

 

the exterior is painted with some heavy duty stuff. I actually plan on blasting it off and using facia block on the foundation in a year.
My main issue is goint to be painting over the 2x3 studding already on the wall. that stuff is on there good. there doesnt appear to be any rot or anything on that wood but its also been exposed a while so its pretty dry. I was debating on pulling the bottom runner and replacing it with pressure treated. All my wood in contact with the concrete has been replaced with pressure treated to be safer.
If i spray right over the studding does anyone forsee any future problems? would it be safer to just leave it the way it is? I dont want to be pulling sheet rock down in a year due to rot. another thing i was thinking was taking thin painters plastic and spray glue and sealing the sheetrock with the plastice then putting it up. I know this may lock in moisture but hypothetically if im spraying there should be any getting in to begin with right?

 

Hi tevil,
Foundations and moisture issues create many challenges and have many solutions, each specific to the house in question. Above grade with that paint on the outside, you are probably not wetting those blocks when it rains. Blasting the paint off could change that. Below grade, whatever the moisture content of the soil, that will be the resulting moisture level right behind your drylock, should apply it across the interior. If the drylock were perfect, the moisture would be held at bay and there should be no problem. But the real world is never perfect and as mentioned, you have those straps to deal with.

Pressure treated is good, just use the right fasteners as I've seen how quickly the wrong ones get eaten up. I'll let you read the links below and decide. I've heard of too many right solutions going bad and to many wrong solutions lasting forever.

Good Luck
Bud
http://www.eere.energy.gov/buildings...s/db/35017.pdf
BSI-049: Confusion About Diffusion — Building Science Information

 

Just what do you intend to spray? Drylok isn't very effective if it's sprayed unless it's backrolled, it also shouldn't be thinned any. It takes a pretty stout airless to spray drylok!

 

yeah i shouldnt have said sprayed, i dont even own a sprayer big enough for that job. i was going to roll/brush it.
I used a ton of tap cons for holding the wood down to the concrete. The way i see it there were just shoddy thin nails holding what was there down for the last 50 years and they were fine so my tap con should hold double that and the house will be out of my hands before then. plus the pressure of the studs pushing down on the runner should be enough with the tap cons to keep it at bay. im going to try and get a few of those 10% lowes coupons and buy the drylok. i guess same point applies. Im doing up a 10 times better job than was there so the place will be off my hands by then. by spring i plan on diggin up around the foundation and running drainage anyway so that should act as a double up then anyway.

 

put up the drylock and that stuff SUCCCCCCCCCKS to work with.
Ive used the gallon cans before and dont remember it being so thick. My arms were destroyed and i went through half a 5gal bucket on two 12x12 rooms only 2 walls each.
Removed the floor sill which was completely rotted along the back wall and about half each side until i got to good wood. Did concrete (quickcrete) repair caulk inside and outside the house on the foundation lines where there was a slight crack and i could tell the moisture was getting in. Then about 4 coats of drylock over that. So two coats on all walls and over studs and like 4 over foundation line caulk.
Then over the drylock i used some of my .3 mill painters plastic stapled all over from top to about 2" past foundation crease over the floor then 3/8 sheetrock.
I was going to replace the sill with pressure treated but opted to not put anything back there as the studs go pretty low and i want NOTHING there to let the area breath easier. Heating BB will cover that up anyway since all my sheet rock is at least 1/2 inch above the floor (no direct contact), and almost 1" on the block walls.
next i start taping and painting then drop tile and laying my laminate floating floor.
Im opting to not put a sealer on the floor and just using the plastic VB that is for the product i choose.
Floor does not appear to ever get damp.
wish me luck, cant wait to have my own music room and get started working on the downstairs kitchen.
thanks to everyone who gave me any advice in my multiple threads, i want to do it as close to right my first time. Would like to get some pics up.