Cinder Block Wall
#1
01-29-12, 12:26 PM
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Woodstock, IL USA
Posts: 72
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Cinder Block Wall
So I am working on my basement wall I was writing about in another post. I now have the cinder block wall exposed. The cinder blocks start a grade siting on a concrete footing/wall which sits on a bench footing.
There are many places where the mortar is completely gone and/or starting to crumble between the blocks. Before I cover the walls with XPS I want to make sure that they are properly sealed.
What do you guys recommend?
I was planning on using a masonry wheel on my grinder to remove the reaming mortar in the bad areas and fill with hydraulic cement using a piping bag.
Is this a good method? Is hydraulic cement recommended or should I use another cement/mortar. I could use just type S mortar but I was worried of shrinking.
Thanks!
There are many places where the mortar is completely gone and/or starting to crumble between the blocks. Before I cover the walls with XPS I want to make sure that they are properly sealed.
What do you guys recommend?
I was planning on using a masonry wheel on my grinder to remove the reaming mortar in the bad areas and fill with hydraulic cement using a piping bag.
Is this a good method? Is hydraulic cement recommended or should I use another cement/mortar. I could use just type S mortar but I was worried of shrinking.
Thanks!
#2
01-29-12, 01:42 PM
Any way you could post pix of what you have? Hydraulic cement will harden too fast to use in a mortar bag. We're talking minutes, not hours. We'll see the pix and see what you need to do. http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...your-post.html
#3
01-29-12, 02:22 PM
Member
A mortar bag is meant for soft mortar that is squeezed, allowed to set up a bit, tooled allowed to set up. Hydraulic cement is much drier (a little more wet than damp) and is packed or compacted into roughened joint/crack. It sets and expands slightly to lock ir in place.
Dick
Dick
#4
01-29-12, 02:51 PM
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Woodstock, IL USA
Posts: 72
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for the replies. I'll take a pic when I get back. Good to know able the hydraulic cement. So I guess you just margin trowel out in?
#5
01-30-12, 06:30 AM
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Woodstock, IL USA
Posts: 72
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Ok, here are some pics:
These 3 courses sit on a concrete footing or wall. The 2 meet right a ground level so the block is all above grade. Sitting on top of the third course is the mudsill.
As you can see there are definitely some spots with cracks and areas where the mortar has crumbled away. The area that is most obvious has no mortar in it and you would be able to see right out side if someone hadn't patched it from the outside. I suppose it is to be expected since the house is just about 100 years old.
These 3 courses sit on a concrete footing or wall. The 2 meet right a ground level so the block is all above grade. Sitting on top of the third course is the mudsill.
As you can see there are definitely some spots with cracks and areas where the mortar has crumbled away. The area that is most obvious has no mortar in it and you would be able to see right out side if someone hadn't patched it from the outside. I suppose it is to be expected since the house is just about 100 years old.
