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Best way to frame and finish around basement window?

Best way to frame and finish around basement window?

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  #1  
Old 08-14-12, 05:50 AM
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Best way to frame and finish around basement window?

So I started framing the basement by starting with an easy wall with no windows or anything, and everything went well. Now I am onto the wall with the window opening and I am unsure exactly how to frame/finish around the window. The pieces on the floor plate are just resting on there to show where 16" OC is. Where exactly should the sill go? As you can see in the second picture, the metal frame goes down about 1/2"... I'm not exactly sure how to finish around this. Should I drywall up to the 1/2" step up? Should I use a piece of wood instead? And how about the sides... drywall? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

Picture 1

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  #2  
Old 08-14-12, 12:48 PM
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I would put a full stud on each side of the window. Don't worry about the 16OC there. Then put 2 pieces going across, one on the top & one on the bottom, of the window. Adjust the cross pieces at the desired height. It's up to you if you want to cover the existing frame & sill or just box against it.
 
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Old 08-14-12, 01:17 PM
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Are you planning on sheetrock returns to the metal casing? Do you want wood returns? If sheetrock, frame up to within 1/2" of the metal frame, extending framing lumber all the way to the metal frame. May take some ripping to do that. This will give you a substrate for applying sheetrock. I like wood, so I would let my framing lumber come within 1" of the flat on the sides and 1" on the bottom to the bottom of the step. Once this framing is in, and your sheetrock is applied to the wall, install 1x wood returns and trim molding. Leaving the one inch will leave a 1/4" reveal of metal all the way around. You will be painting the metal, I presume.
 
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Old 08-14-12, 01:19 PM
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I think you will find that it is easier to finish if instead of drywalling to the 1/2" step, you instead butt the drywall up to the front face of the window jamb. I would not try to get the drywall flush with anything... instead if you step the drywall 1/2" AWAY from the perimeter of the jamb (farther out... not farther in), you will create an inside corner where your drywall butts into the jamb, which you can then caulk if you need to. They make tear away L-bead for that purpose.

So around the window perimeter, you might want to frame the opening far enough away that you can insert a 3/4" thick "box" jamb into the rough opening that you will then drywall... so that you have solid wood to nail to, right up to the window. Otherwise, with that foam, there will be nothing to nail the tear away L-bead to.

Or you could forget the drywall return and just trim it with wood.
 
  #5  
Old 08-14-12, 05:43 PM
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Thanks for the replies and suggestions. This is my first major indoor project (spent all of two summers ago doing a massive landscaping project and last summer I took a break from everything) so I am a bit new to all of this.

First, I will be sanding and painting the frame, as well as replacing the window with a double-pane version.

So basically, to frame and finish this I need to box it in with the 2x4s being far enough away so that I can screw plywood to them and then drywall so the drywall is flush with the frame. I may use wood for the bottom, but the principal would be the same. Is that correct? Something like this picture:

Picture 1 Edited
 
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Old 08-14-12, 06:31 PM
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That is correct. You can always do a combination of sheetrock return on the top and sides with a wooden sill, and it will look just fine. Once you box it in with dimension lumber, there will be no need for any plywood. Set your framing lumber back 1/4" further away than the covering you plan on using (ie. 3/4" for sheetrock and 1: for 1x trim material.)
 
  #7  
Old 08-16-12, 07:42 PM
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Great, thanks a lot.

Should anything go in the small gap between the drywall and the frame then to give it a more finished look? Just silicone or caulk?
 
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Old 08-16-12, 07:49 PM
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I would recommend the tearaway l-bead butt up against the window... keep it back from the edge so it is not flush, followed by painters caulk in the inside corner that is created, if desired. But not silicone.
 
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