Egress Window help


  #1  
Old 08-25-12, 10:53 AM
T
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 32
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Egress Window help

I am planning on building a spare room in my basement. I have the intention of making it a bedroom up to code. Unfortunately the code for egress windows say that the light requirement (which is BS in my opinion) has to be 8% or more of the room size. The room will be about 190 Sq/ft. This means my window(s) need to be 15.2 sq/ft. I assume this means the window pain of glass. Attached is the picture of the existing window. It is a 32w x 14h glass block. If I put a replacement window in does it need a treated wood frame to attach it to? Then I am losing 3" on the top/bottom. So in order to meet the minimum requirement of a egress to be able to crawl through - it will not be enough for the light requirements. So I am thinking two side by side windows with a support in the center. If this can be done, what are the requirements of the support? Can I leave a 1/2 block (8" the span of the windows top to bottom)? Or would a full block be better. Are there codes that require a window to be a certain distance from the wall in the corner? Or can I take all the block out and just make a treated beam to separate 2 windows? Then there is the header question. If we did 2 32" windows and left a course in the middle I assume the header only needs a 2 x 8" shoulder, right?

Name:  basement window.jpg
Views: 15184
Size:  29.1 KB

Name:  basement window2.jpg
Views: 15581
Size:  31.2 KB
 
  #2  
Old 08-25-12, 11:42 AM
Gunguy45's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 19,281
Received 6 Upvotes on 6 Posts
I'm not sure what you mean by "light requirement"? Never heard of that.

Egress windows need 5.7 sf clear opening...if I'm not mistaken. Clear opening is how big the access to the outside is without breaking out a sash.

There are also height above the floor requirements. Won't speak to those.
 
  #3  
Old 08-25-12, 11:56 AM
T
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 32
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Comm 21.05 Light and ventilation. (1) NATURAL
LIGHT. All habitable rooms shall be provided with natural light by means of glazed openings. The area of the glazed be at least 8% of the net floor area, except under the following circumstances:
(a) Exception. Habitable rooms, other than bedrooms, located in basements need not be provided with natural light.
(b) Exception. Natural light may be obtained from adjoining
areas through glazed openings, louvers or other approved methods. Door openings into adjoining areas may not be used to satisfy this requirement.
(2) VENTILATION. (a) Natural ventilation. Natural ventilation
shall be provided to all habitable rooms by means of openable doors, skylights or windows. The net area of the openable doors, skylights or windows shall be at least 3.5% of the net floor area of the room. Balanced
 
  #4  
Old 08-25-12, 12:32 PM
Gunguy45's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 19,281
Received 6 Upvotes on 6 Posts
Well...that's way out of my area...so we'll wait for a Pro I guess. Just wondering....is that the commercial building code? Wonder if residential might be different?
 
  #5  
Old 08-25-12, 12:42 PM
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 5,650
Received 1 Upvote on 1 Post
The information (Comm 21.05 Light and ventilation apply to natural light and natural ventilation) and not for egress requirements. Egress is a different requirement they applies to getting in (firemen with gear and police) and out (occupants) in an emergency. This requirement is almost nation wide in model codes regarding the clear opening (total area, height and width of separate moveable sections) available without tools and qualifying windows usually have "certified" sticker on them to make the inspectors job easier and to keep you of of "jail". Remove it AFTER the installation is approved and save the approval notification. This can be very valuable to raise the living area and appraised value when you go to sell since it makes financing easier.

The height to the bottom of the opening is usually 44" (I think), but some localities use a 42" maximum height from finished floor to the bottom of the clear opening. This dimension can be a little sticky, so find out from the local code people what the requirement is before installing the window you have selected.

Dick
 
  #6  
Old 08-25-12, 12:47 PM
chandler's Avatar
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 36,607
Upvotes: 0
Received 9 Upvotes on 8 Posts
Is this the only wall where you can have windows? Are the others below grade? You don't want your window to be as high as the glass block window is presently. You have to figure in ceiling height and trim around the window, which will lower the window somewhat. Is lowering the window going to present a problem?
 
  #7  
Old 08-25-12, 01:23 PM
T
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 32
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
The information (Comm 21.05 Light and ventilation apply to natural light and natural ventilation) and not for egress requirements. Egress is a different requirement they applies to getting in (firemen with gear and police) and out (occupants) in an emergency. This requirement is almost nation wide in model codes regarding the clear opening (total area, height and width of separate moveable sections) available without tools and qualifying windows usually have "certified" sticker on them to make the inspectors job easier and to keep you of of "jail". Remove it AFTER the installation is approved and save the approval notification. This can be very valuable to raise the living area and appraised value when you go to sell since it makes financing easier.

The height to the bottom of the opening is usually 44" (I think), but some localities use a 42" maximum height from finished floor to the bottom of the clear opening. This dimension can be a little sticky, so find out from the local code people what the requirement is before installing the window you have selected.

Dick
Thanks, most of this I already knew, but my question is more for how far can I span without a header and if I do 2 windows can we leave a course 16" or halfblock 8" from top to bottom.
 
  #8  
Old 08-25-12, 01:26 PM
T
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 32
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Is this the only wall where you can have windows? Are the others below grade? You don't want your window to be as high as the glass block window is presently. You have to figure in ceiling height and trim around the window, which will lower the window somewhat. Is lowering the window going to present a problem?
Yes, this wall is the only option.

The glass block window is one 2x4's width below the floor joists and the windows top is just about grade outside the house.
 
  #9  
Old 08-25-12, 02:14 PM
XSleeper's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 27,061
Received 1,910 Upvotes on 1,716 Posts
I think this older post may answer your questions.
 
  #10  
Old 08-25-12, 02:48 PM
T
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 32
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
I think this older post may answer your questions.
Thanks, it did answer some of my questions.
 
  #11  
Old 08-25-12, 04:52 PM
XSleeper's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 27,061
Received 1,910 Upvotes on 1,716 Posts
I'd also recommend that a temporary wall be built in the basement while you do this work, and that your center column be demolished, and that you rebuild it with 8" or 16" blocks, depending on the spacing you desire, with rebar + slugged solid to the footing with concrete. Your window openings don't "need" a treated 2x woodbuck, but it certainly makes it easier to have something to nail to when you go to install your trim. Your cement blocks that will form the perimeter of the window openings will all need to be toothed out and replaced with blocks that have square ends, so size your windows accordingly.
 
  #12  
Old 08-26-12, 09:42 AM
T
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 32
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
I'd also recommend that a temporary wall be built in the basement while you do this work, and that your center column be demolished, and that you rebuild it with 8" or 16" blocks, depending on the spacing you desire, with rebar + slugged solid to the footing with concrete. Your window openings don't "need" a treated 2x woodbuck, but it certainly makes it easier to have something to nail to when you go to install your trim. Your cement blocks that will form the perimeter of the window openings will all need to be toothed out and replaced with blocks that have square ends, so size your windows accordingly.
You really think that cutting the block to leave a 16 wide course will not be enough? I was thinking for added support to hang joist hangers on the floor joists. I have a line up of a 30x50 Egress window brand new on craigslist. I just need to get another one. What is screwing me is the whole 8% light thing.
 
  #13  
Old 08-26-12, 05:44 PM
T
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 32
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
What's the code on the distance between 2 windows in a basement [Egress window]

Can I have 2 32" openings for egress windows basically side-by-side. I am intending to have a 16" block as my separator between them.
 

Last edited by Nashkat1; 08-26-12 at 06:47 PM. Reason: remove redirect
  #14  
Old 08-26-12, 06:26 PM
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 5,650
Received 1 Upvote on 1 Post
Nothing specifically about the spacing, especially if they are in same room. If they are both in the same room, only one has to meet the egress window requirements, although it would be a little strange looking if the are different sizes and so close together.

The requirements are for clear opening area (sq. sf) for the egress window. In addition, there are requirements for clear opening width and and the clear opening height available to open with no tools or destruction and no trade-off between the separate requirements. Any window that is a legal egress window will be labeled as such with a sticker that should be left on (for your benefit) until you have passing inspection and then save the inspection approval for your purposes when you go to sell later.

There is also a requirement for for the maximum dimension from the bottom of the clear opening to the FINISHED floor. This is usually 42" or 44", depending on the locality.

The best thing to do is ask the local inspector for the window requirements since they do not want the hassle with the use of an incorrect window or the installation of a window. They do not want you to make their job tougher or time-consuming. Local authorities have the right to impose stricter requirements than the model codes. A few years ago, Wisconsin was notorious for arbitrary differences (even for national codes and standards for materials) within the state, but it is much better now.

Dick
 
  #15  
Old 08-26-12, 06:37 PM
XSleeper's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 27,061
Received 1,910 Upvotes on 1,716 Posts
There IS no code on the distance "between windows". As pointed out, the main thing is that ONE of the windows meets the sq in requirement for egress, and is the right distance from the floor. Your additional light area requirement would be met by adding the 2nd window, no matter where it is in the room... right next to it, 8" away, 16" away or even on a separate wall.
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: