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Finishing basement: hammering in 2x4 greens, but floor uneven near walls

Finishing basement: hammering in 2x4 greens, but floor uneven near walls


Old 07-12-13, 08:58 PM
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Thumbs up Finishing basement: hammering in 2x4 greens, but floor uneven near walls

Hi! I have just signed up - glad to be here.
I am finishing a basement in my house in Colorado, where it is required that the frame stands on a 2x4 green. The green must be hammered to the concrete floor. The problem is that the floor is is not fully horizontal near the wall - it curves up a little, so the greens won't be either, which means that the frame hammered to the green will not be completely vertical unless I do something about it. May I have an advice on what I can do about it, please?
Thanks in advance.
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Old 07-12-13, 10:03 PM
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Fairly simple to construct your walls plumb, despite what the floor is doing. You'll be custom-fitting each stud in the "lumpy" areas, cutting them to the length required for a snug fit between sill (floor) plate and top (ceiling) plate members. For best results, make sure the long axis (dimension) of the floor plate is horizontal and not sloped, such that all stud ends can be cut "square". If the flooring has more than 1/4" or so of variation in a short run, you might want to consider either knocking it down with a bush hammer/scabbler, or building it up with floor leveler (depending on what it needs), before building your walls.
Old 07-12-13, 11:21 PM
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Your green treated plate (and wall) should be constructed a minimum of 1" away from the foundation walls. Will that take care of some or most of the "slope" that you are referring to? If not, and there are still a few bumps and lumps to navigate, it would be quite easy to take an angle grinder and a diamond cup wheel and clean the floor edges up a little bit. Not that they have to be perfect... you could also easily shim the inner edge of the plate to level it up if it still wants to tip. Just shim as needed at the anchor points.
Old 07-13-13, 09:33 AM
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If in a bad soil area, leave the gap as required by code and just bevel-rip the edge of the plate facing the room to accept the drywall flush; 5* or ? Page 13; http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...fvKKDQ&cad=rja

Set the plate on 1/2" f.b. for a capillary/thermal/air break; Pressure-Treated Sill Plates and the Building Code | GreenBuildingAdvisor.com

More help in finishing; http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...S5nkLg&cad=rja

IMO, add some housewrap with a loose fold (enough to cover the max spread of wall/plate gap) set in some caulking to supply the required air-barrier keeping interior air/moisture from condensing on the colder concrete wall. Foamboard the concrete and the rim joists...no gap to insulation; https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q...fHFsk1RrK9G2HQ


Last edited by Gary in WA; 07-13-13 at 09:58 AM.
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