Framing questions
#1
02-20-01, 10:36 AM
I am finishing my basement with floating walls (I live in Colorado...), and have a couple of questions. None of the walls being built will be load-bearing.
1-Can a floating wall "float" at the top of the wall or does it have to float at the bottom, above the sole plate? Can someone direct me to a good reference for building floating walls? I am mostly concerned that I will not be able to raise the wall into place and hold it there while fastening it to the ceiling.
2-The builder installed insulation onto the basement walls by fastening it directly to the concrete. In some places it provides a loft of around 4-inches. I value the presence of this insulation, but in order to maintain its effectiveness (i.e. loft), I will have to build the frame away from the concete wall. This will reduce my final livable space considerably. What is the best way to maintain the insulation and maximize the final livable space? Can I use 2x2 lumber instead of 2x4 since the walls will only be supporting drywall?
3-How can I ensure that I am building a "straight" wall, one which runs parallel to the foundation wall, when the insulation loft will differ along the entire length of the wall? If I use a plum bob to define my wall "footprint", the footprint may not correspond to the foundation wall since the insulation loft will vary along the wall run.
4-Although most of the time, the walls will be running perpendicular to the upper floor joists allowing me to hang the walls directly onto the joists, there will be runs along which the wall will be parallel to the joists. In these instances, the nearest joist may be more than 6-inches from the wall. How do I hang a wall frame in these instances? Normally, I would build the wall on the floor, raise it to the correct position, and use blocks to attach the wall to the joists. Being a floating wall though, I am concerned that the blocks won't support the weight of the wall. Any ideas?
5-The joists are engineered I-beam type. Can I nail directly into these joists and hang a floating wall from them without degrading their structural rigidity? Also, if using blocks to join spans between joists, can I fasten the blocks to any part of the joist (e.g. the vertical part as opposed to the horizontal part)?
Sorry if any of this is confusing. I appreciate any help you all can provide!
John
1-Can a floating wall "float" at the top of the wall or does it have to float at the bottom, above the sole plate? Can someone direct me to a good reference for building floating walls? I am mostly concerned that I will not be able to raise the wall into place and hold it there while fastening it to the ceiling.
2-The builder installed insulation onto the basement walls by fastening it directly to the concrete. In some places it provides a loft of around 4-inches. I value the presence of this insulation, but in order to maintain its effectiveness (i.e. loft), I will have to build the frame away from the concete wall. This will reduce my final livable space considerably. What is the best way to maintain the insulation and maximize the final livable space? Can I use 2x2 lumber instead of 2x4 since the walls will only be supporting drywall?
3-How can I ensure that I am building a "straight" wall, one which runs parallel to the foundation wall, when the insulation loft will differ along the entire length of the wall? If I use a plum bob to define my wall "footprint", the footprint may not correspond to the foundation wall since the insulation loft will vary along the wall run.
4-Although most of the time, the walls will be running perpendicular to the upper floor joists allowing me to hang the walls directly onto the joists, there will be runs along which the wall will be parallel to the joists. In these instances, the nearest joist may be more than 6-inches from the wall. How do I hang a wall frame in these instances? Normally, I would build the wall on the floor, raise it to the correct position, and use blocks to attach the wall to the joists. Being a floating wall though, I am concerned that the blocks won't support the weight of the wall. Any ideas?
5-The joists are engineered I-beam type. Can I nail directly into these joists and hang a floating wall from them without degrading their structural rigidity? Also, if using blocks to join spans between joists, can I fasten the blocks to any part of the joist (e.g. the vertical part as opposed to the horizontal part)?
Sorry if any of this is confusing. I appreciate any help you all can provide!
John
#2
02-20-01, 06:42 PM
Member
Q: Can a floating wall "float" at the top of the wall or does it have to float at the bottom, above the sole plate?
A: Yes, I suppose you can float them at the top. You'll have to install your baseboard against your ceiling. Might look a little funny.
Q: Can someone direct me to a good reference for building floating walls?
A: Home improvement stores in your area will have classes and instructions.
Q: I am mostly concerned that I will not be able to raise the wall into place and hold it there while fastening it to the ceiling.
A: You don't have to hold it there. Install temporary 2x4 blocks on the sole plate. Set your wall on top of the blocks. Once you have the wall secured, remove the temporary blocks.
Q: The builder installed insulation onto the basement walls by fastening it directly to the concrete. In some places it provides a loft of around 4-inches. I value the presence of this insulation, but in order to maintain its effectiveness (i.e. loft), I will have to build the frame away from the concrete wall. This will reduce my final livable space considerably. What is the best way to maintain the insulation and maximize the final livable space?
A: Please don't mourn the space. Once you're done, you won't notice. Put the studs so that they are touching but only slightly compressing the insulation. This will provide you with not only insulation but fireblock.
Q: Can I use 2x2 lumber instead of 2x4 since the walls will only be supporting drywall?
A: Heavens no! The 2x4s are necessary if you want straight walls. Try to find a 2x2 that is not only straight, but likely to stay that way.
Q: How can I ensure that I am building a "straight" wall, one which runs parallel to the foundation wall, when the insulation loft will differ along the entire length of the wall?
A: Straight and parallel to the foundation are two very different things. Use a chalk line to ensure straight. Your foundation wall is neither straight nor plumb. Neither are the corners square. Don't use the foundation wall as a guide.
Q: If I use a plum bob to define my wall "footprint", the footprint may not correspond to the foundation wall since the insulation loft will vary along the wall run.
A: Snap a line on the floor or ceiling. Use a plumb bob to transfer the line to the ceiling or floor. Again, make your walls straight and forget the foundation.
Q: Although most of the time, the walls will be running perpendicular to the upper floor joists allowing me to hang the walls directly onto the joists, there will be runs along which the wall will be parallel to the joists. In these instances, the nearest joist may be more than 6-inches from the wall. How do I hang a wall frame in these instances?
A: First install 2x4 sleepers, every 16 inches, between the joists and flush with their bottom. Attach your wall to these sleepers.
Q: Normally, I would build the wall on the floor, raise it to the correct position, and use blocks to attach the wall to the joists. Being a floating wall though, I am concerned that the blocks won't support the weight of the wall. Any ideas?
A: See my comments above. It's even easier with a floating wall because you don't need to worry about extra space to raise the wall. The wall you build will be at least three inches shorter than the floor to ceiling height anyway.
Q: The joists are engineered I-beam type. Can I nail directly into these joists and hang a floating wall from them without degrading their structural rigidity? Also, if using blocks to join spans between joists, can I fasten the blocks to any part of the joist (e.g. the vertical part as opposed to the horizontal part)?
A: Yes. Use screws and predrill to avoid splitting. Yes, you can attach to either the vertical or horizontal surfaces.
A: Yes, I suppose you can float them at the top. You'll have to install your baseboard against your ceiling. Might look a little funny.
Q: Can someone direct me to a good reference for building floating walls?
A: Home improvement stores in your area will have classes and instructions.
Q: I am mostly concerned that I will not be able to raise the wall into place and hold it there while fastening it to the ceiling.
A: You don't have to hold it there. Install temporary 2x4 blocks on the sole plate. Set your wall on top of the blocks. Once you have the wall secured, remove the temporary blocks.
Q: The builder installed insulation onto the basement walls by fastening it directly to the concrete. In some places it provides a loft of around 4-inches. I value the presence of this insulation, but in order to maintain its effectiveness (i.e. loft), I will have to build the frame away from the concrete wall. This will reduce my final livable space considerably. What is the best way to maintain the insulation and maximize the final livable space?
A: Please don't mourn the space. Once you're done, you won't notice. Put the studs so that they are touching but only slightly compressing the insulation. This will provide you with not only insulation but fireblock.
Q: Can I use 2x2 lumber instead of 2x4 since the walls will only be supporting drywall?
A: Heavens no! The 2x4s are necessary if you want straight walls. Try to find a 2x2 that is not only straight, but likely to stay that way.
Q: How can I ensure that I am building a "straight" wall, one which runs parallel to the foundation wall, when the insulation loft will differ along the entire length of the wall?
A: Straight and parallel to the foundation are two very different things. Use a chalk line to ensure straight. Your foundation wall is neither straight nor plumb. Neither are the corners square. Don't use the foundation wall as a guide.
Q: If I use a plum bob to define my wall "footprint", the footprint may not correspond to the foundation wall since the insulation loft will vary along the wall run.
A: Snap a line on the floor or ceiling. Use a plumb bob to transfer the line to the ceiling or floor. Again, make your walls straight and forget the foundation.
Q: Although most of the time, the walls will be running perpendicular to the upper floor joists allowing me to hang the walls directly onto the joists, there will be runs along which the wall will be parallel to the joists. In these instances, the nearest joist may be more than 6-inches from the wall. How do I hang a wall frame in these instances?
A: First install 2x4 sleepers, every 16 inches, between the joists and flush with their bottom. Attach your wall to these sleepers.
Q: Normally, I would build the wall on the floor, raise it to the correct position, and use blocks to attach the wall to the joists. Being a floating wall though, I am concerned that the blocks won't support the weight of the wall. Any ideas?
A: See my comments above. It's even easier with a floating wall because you don't need to worry about extra space to raise the wall. The wall you build will be at least three inches shorter than the floor to ceiling height anyway.
Q: The joists are engineered I-beam type. Can I nail directly into these joists and hang a floating wall from them without degrading their structural rigidity? Also, if using blocks to join spans between joists, can I fasten the blocks to any part of the joist (e.g. the vertical part as opposed to the horizontal part)?
A: Yes. Use screws and predrill to avoid splitting. Yes, you can attach to either the vertical or horizontal surfaces.
