Basement dropped ceiling help


  #1  
Old 09-30-13, 02:14 PM
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Basement dropped ceiling help

Hello guys, I probably should introduce myself and say hello to everyone as this is my first post.

Jrandolph here. How you all doing?

Now to my issues.

I am dropping my basement ceiling 5" and I had a few questions as to the lay out of the grid work. I am using Armstrong white wall angle and main runners and cross tees, along with 2x2 ceiling tile. I want to lay it out to be able to use the 2x2 tiles.

My ceiling is 22'6" x 8' 1/2". Basically a large rectangle.

I want to be able to install 3 or 4 recessed lights very near the center of the ceiling which would put them at about the 48" mark.

What I have done so far is this:

I have installed all the wall angle and two main runners the entire length of the 22'6" section. I went one foot from the center on both sides when I installed the main runners thus giving me a 2x2 section. I also put a few tiles in to firm things up a little. Doesn't look too bad, but getting everything level is real tricky.

My question now is how to proceed with the rest of the grid installation.

Do I simply run two more main runners and attach everything with 2x2 cross tees or do I go with the two existing main runners that I already installed and use 4' cross tees and intersect them with 2' cross tees?

I hope I'm explaining this properly. I already purchased enough material to run 4 main runners and then finish with all 2x2 cross tees, but I read somewhere that this would be the incorrect way to do the job.

Any advice would surely be welcome.

Thanks
 
  #2  
Old 09-30-13, 04:11 PM
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I'd suggest you use Armstrong's web estimator, if nothing else it will help you visualize how it will be, and where the lights should go. It also allows you to move the grid around once you've got your wall lengths entered in. IMO you should drop the 1/2" from your 8ft measurement for estimating purposes.

You really want 2 main runners spaced 4ft apart, assuming your lights will be down the center. After that, you would divide the space between the main beams into 4x4 sections using 4ft tees, divide them in half with another 4ft tee, then insert 2ft tees around the perimeter and in any spaces remaining. You will probably be able to trim the perimeter tees to length as needed, to gain that extra 1/4" per side, if needed.
 
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Old 09-30-13, 05:34 PM
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XSleeper,

Thanks for taking the time to help me.

Since I already have the two main runners installed and level, and considering I have all the eye screws attached to the main runners, I really don't want to undo all of this unless absolutely necessary.

As I said, the main runners I installed are two feet apart.

What would it hurt to install two more main runners two feet apart from each one of the main runners already installed? I realize I would need to add more eye screws and wire, but is there something wrong in doing it that way?

I also can't visualize how I could install the three or four recessed lights in the middle of the ceiling. Wouldn't the cross tees be in the way?

This is the first time I really installed a ceiling like this, so if I sound a little confused, it's because I am.

Thanks again....
 
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Old 09-30-13, 06:14 PM
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Well, here is what I think. Don't feel bad about it being your first time, it will be a learning experience. After all, this is a DIY site.

IMO, putting main beams 2' apart, centered down the room was a mistake. If your intention was to put 2x4 lights down the middle, you could have put one beam 1' of center, and the other 3' off center. You would end up with the same thing, but you would be able to create 4x4 grids, which is usually the preferred method of installation.

Here's the reason you usually want to make 4x4 grids. You usually want to start a ceiling grid by creating a 4x4 square or 4x8 or what have you... in the center of the room and measure the diagonals check to see that they are equal, and if not adjust that middle 4x4 or 4x8 until it's square, maybe finish the grid within it and drop a few tiles in to keep it square. Then you work out from there. By doing that you create a framework using the least amount of pieces possible, and once you cut a few pieces around the perimeter of the room, that perfect "square" in the middle of the room won't be able to move and get "out of square".

You can leave your main beams as is and add 2 more main runners, but the problem that creates is too many tie wires, which will be in your way when you go to install your tiles. You usually want to put the main beams 4ft apart so that your tie wires don't interfere with the 2ft panels you want to install. I'm sure you can't see the wisdom in this yet, but when you start putting in the panels and start hitting wires everytime you try to install a panel, I think you will see what I mean. Additionally, by wiring 4 main beams instead of just 2, you may be making a stronger, better tied ceiling grid, but unless you have a laser you are probably also increasing the chances that your ceiling is going to be very "lumpy". In other words, by using 4 main beams you just doubled the chances that the ceiling isn't going to be perfectly flat. A ceiling that size just doesn't require that many wires.

When you make the grid opening for the lights, you will be making a 2x4 opening, so no... there will not be a cross tee in the way. The way you ran your main beams, they will have to run between them, the long way. And the only way to center 3 lights will be to have your 22'6" divided up like this: 3" / 2' / 4' / 2' / 4' / 2' / 4' / 2' / 3" (where 4' represents the light)

That will place one 4' light directly in the center of the room.

It usually looks better when you don't have a 3" sliver on the edge of the room. The alternative is to start with a 1'3" piece on each end. However that would throw your 2x4 light layout off. If you went with a 1'3" piece on each end, I would recommend you go with 2x2 lights instead, using either 4 or 5 of them, depending on whether you want a light in the dead center of the room (5 lights) or a ceiling tile in the dead center of the room (4 lights).

An alternative to adding 2 more main beams would be to use 4' tees that will be cut to length, (3' 0 1/2") and run from the main beam to the wall angle, placed 4' on center. Then fill in with 4' tees and 2' tees as needed. You will always need to cut tees that rest on the wall channel to length.

Hopefully some of that will help you decide what route you want to take. Don't worry about doing it "wrong" per se, the way it looks in the end is really all that matters. If you have to do one again in the future, you will have this one under your belt and maybe will have a better plan next time.
 
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Old 10-01-13, 05:31 AM
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Wow!

Thanks for that detailed explanation. I'm starting to understand things a bit more.

I can definitely see what you mean about the wire getting in the way when you try to lay in ceiling tile, so by me adding two more main runners with a lot more wire involved, it just might be a problem.

I also see what you mean about trying to get everything level and even and not look lumpy as you put it. I had a hard enough time trying to get the two main runners I installed to be fairly level and adding two more just might be another problem.

So, I will probably use your other suggestion and just leave the two main runners that are already installed, where they are, and use 4 foot tees and go from the main runners to the wall angle.

I had thought about doing it this way, but I wasn't sure if just the hanger wire supporting the two main runners two feet apart running down the center of the room, would be enough support if I branched out from the main runners to the wall angle using 4 foot tees.

Also, the lighting I am planning to use is simply the Halo 6" recessed lights which I assume somehow lay in the grid work and I simply need to cut a hole in the center of a tile. From looking at things though, I am going to run into a problem with clearance to the floor joists above the dropped ceiling.

Oh well, I'll deal with that when I come to it.

Probably be checking back in with ya then.

Thanks for all your help.
 
 

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