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Mold removal in attic - do I need to protect insulation?

Mold removal in attic - do I need to protect insulation?

Old 11-17-13, 10:05 AM
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Mold removal in attic - do I need to protect insulation?

I've heard bleach doesn't work well for porous surfaces... So I'm planning on going with a 10% hydrogen peroxide + borate solution on my sheathing... Just as if I was dry-ice blasting and worried about running out of oxygen, now I'm concerned about using something that has TOO MUCH oxygen - creating what might be a highly flammable environment in a hot, dry attic. Any advice on that? I'm assuming as the hydrogen peroxide reacts with - anything - it will release the extra O atom and my attic will be flooded with oxygen? Or am I overthinking this?

Main question: Is it okay to overspray the flame-retardant-coated cellulous-based insulation with this stuff? It's the blown-in kind, not the pink rollout stuff.

Plus+, is it okay to overspray the insulation with the white mold-preventer/primer/sealer/paint stuff once I treat everything with peroxide? Or should I cover it as best as I can w/ plastic THEN spray? the ceiling isn't very high and it's *very* difficult to get "back in there". Nearly impossible. so if I'm spraying the sheathing, I'm going to be spraying the insulation too, unless I cover it.
Old 11-17-13, 12:25 PM
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Mold on what?

The world is covered with mold spores, yet when you look around mold isn't growing on everything!

Mold usually grows on wood, paper, leather. To grow it needs both food and water. The water it gets out of the air, the food is usually wood, cellulose.

Where is the mold growing?
Old 11-17-13, 01:38 PM
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Instead of playing around with some home brew that may or may not even work use what a pro exterminator would use.
Better find out why there's mold there in the fist place.
Lack of roof and soffit vents is the most common cause.
Bathroom fan not being run out through the roof or just out the soffit.
Dryer vent run into the attic.
Attic not air sealed.
Not enough insulation.

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